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#9 (1053 lines):
Date: Monday, 26 September 1994 03:00 edt
From: homebrew-request at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM (Request Address Only - No Articles)
Subject: Homebrew Digest #1536 (September 26, 1994)
Reply-To: homebrew at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM (Posting Address Only - No Requests)
To: homebrew at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM
Errors-To: [email protected]
Precedence: bulk

HOMEBREW Digest #1536 Mon 26 September 1994


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
Portland, OR Brewpubs (Steve Armbrust)
Demerara Sugar source (Randy Erickson)
Re: yeast question (Patrick Weix)
Odd & Ends (Ulick Stafford)
Cider in "Corny" kegs (Chris Cooper)
aeration equipment? (GubGuy)
HELP (Ted Shai-Hulud Bedwell)
MORE ON DUNKELWEIZENBOCKS (MHANSEN)
temperature controller (DONBREW)
WSZ551 NOT DEFINED TO THE UIHC INFORMM SYSTEM ("EMS001")
WSZ551 NOT DEFINED TO THE UIHC INFORMM SYSTEM ("EMS001")
WSZ551 NOT DEFINED TO THE UIHC INFORMM SYSTEM ("EMS001")
WSZ551 NOT DEFINED TO THE UIHC INFORMM SYSTEM ("EMS001")
Re: Racking cider (Automagical Mail Responder)



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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Fri, 23 Sep 94 09:17:17 PST
From: Steve Armbrust
Subject: Portland, OR Brewpubs


Text item: Text_1

I'm not sure if this is exactly the right forum for this, but lately
there have been several requests for information on Portland, OR
brewpubs. So here's a short list/description/review. All the usual
disclaimers apply.

Bridgeport -- 1313 NW Marshall. The original. Old brick warehouse
w/great atmosphere, great pizza, wonderful cask-conditioned ales.

Portland Brewing -- 1339 NW Flanders (the small original pub) and 2730
NW 31st (new brewery with massive copper boiler). The new brewery has
better food selection. Try McTarnahans Ale, especially the cask
version.

Norwester' Brewing -- 66 SE Morrison. The new "big guy." The place
is a little bland, and so is their beer. Their cask ale is their best
(can you tell where my prejudices lie?). Some food.

Northwestern Brew-Pub & Cafe -- 711 SW Ankeny. Funky little place,
lots of beers with house flavor, low-priced pints.

Edgefield -- 2126 SW Halsey, Troutdale. Jewel of the McMenamin crown.
The Disneyland of brewpubs. Includes hotel, movie theater, two
restaurants, winery. Their IPA is their best, but Hammerhead is also
good, as is Terminator Stout.

McMenamins Pubs -- Portland's version of the convenience store.
There are at least 25 in the metro area. Look them up in the business
section of the phonebook. They all have sandwiches and fries and
McMenamins beers.

Old Market Pub & Brewery -- 6959 SW Garden Home Rd. I haven't been
there, so I can't comment.

Heathman Bakery & Pub -- 901 SW Salmon. Glass wall separates it from
a Widmer brewery. Upscale pizza and other food. Beer from a variety
of micros.

Pilsner Room -- 309 SW Montgomery. Glass wall separates it from a
Full Sail Brewery. Upscale food and beer from a variety of micros.
Try the cask conditioned Full Sail IPA.

There are plenty of other beers to try from breweries who don't have
pubs. Look for Star IPA, anything from Multnomah Brewing, and an IPA
from a new Hood River brewer (don't know the name).

Steve Armbrust
[email protected]

------------------------------

Date: 23 Sep 94 12:18:03 EDT
From: Randy Erickson <[email protected]>
Subject: Demerara Sugar source

With all the discussion re: Demerara sugar lately, I thought I'd pass along a
mail order source for those interested/curious.

Brewer's Resource (800) 827-3983 caries it @ $4.50 for 17.5 oz.

No connection, blah, blah, blah -- just a two-year satisfied customer.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Sep 1994 09:54:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Patrick Weix
Subject: Re: yeast question

Dan asked me:

>What is your feeling on producers supplying the strain discriptions for
their
> available strains? What sort of data are you looking to add?
>
> Dan
>
I have no problem with that. I feel that most yeast strain producers are
trying to be accurate and fair. If they misrepresent their product,
people will take their $4.95 and go elsewhere. I have never seen
consumers as informed as homebrewers! So, in the Faq as it stands, many
of the ``blurbs'' come from the distributors themselves, as do all of the

attenuation numbers and most of the flocculation ratings. I would like to
add peoples' experience (is everthing working as advertised, are strains
hardier or more tempermental than others, etc.) and any strains that have
been released that may not have made it to my market yet. Also, if anyone
has floc. ratings or attenuation numbers that I do not, please send those.

Patrick


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Sep 1994 13:29:37 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected] (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Odd & Ends

Well, my little anal post drew so many responses that I haven't had time
to respond to each individual, but I understand why big bottles are unwelcome,
can also see some problems on the identification issue when distinct
bottles are used, but how distinct is a random bottle arriving whcih happens
to have raised lettering? But for the life of me I do not know why clear
bottles are unacceptable if green ones are.

There has been a lot of talk about carboy lifting disaters, and I am
getting nervous about using them. I do have a scar on my finger that was
caused by a broken carboy. One of the worst homebrew disaster stories I
heard was to do with lifting a carboy by the neck, and it wasn't the
carboy that broke. The individual had his hand in a cast. His rist had
popped when lifting the carboy with one hand (I think he was a member of
the Kenosha homebrew club).

PVC can't take heat. Polycarbonate and polypropylene are autoclavable.
HDPE can supposedly take heat to 248/120 which should be OK for boiling
water, although the extra peace of mind (the element would get hot) would
encourage me to try and find a suitable PP container for the right price.

Rip off! I paid $6.50 for a Wyeast the other day because my regular
supplier has moved away a bit and I needed it in a hurry. They should
still be $3.50-$4, right? I won't rush back there soon (but
then with an inventory of around 1 lb of hops and in excess of 100 lb
of Baird pale ale and Briess 2-row malt I don't really have to).
__________________________________________________________________________
'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s@&* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng.
Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556
http://ulix.rad.nd.edu/Ulick.html | [email protected]


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Sep 1994 15:14:42 -0400
From: Chris Cooper

Date: Fri, September 23, 3:00 PM EDT
From: [email protected] (Chris Cooper)
Subject: Cider in "Corny" kegs

There's a nip in the morning air, the leaves are starting to turn and
there has been an increase in the amount of cider talk here on the
HBD. Here in southeastern Michigan we are blessed with many fine apple
orchards and cider mills and I would like to try making some sparkling
cider or cyser. My main concern is that the fermentation time is longer
than that for beer (months instead of weeks) and I don't want to tie up
one of my glass carboys that long. I have recently been given several
"corny" kegs by a friend who just bought an old bar in northern Ohio and
found them in the basement during renovation. I don't mind tying them up
for several months as I currently don't have a brew fridge or a CO2 bottle
and valves for kegging.

So now my question, since cider is fairly acidic is there any problem using
a "corny" keg for extended fermentation periods (3-6 months)?
Anyone out there been down this road before? Your comments and suggestions
are welcomed, Email is fine , I will post a summary if replies warrant it.

- --TIA---

Chris Cooper, Comerce Michigan --> Where ever you go <--
[email protected] --> There you are <--
IBMMAIL(99880)



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Sep 94 15:52:32 EDT
From: [email protected]
Subject: aeration equipment?

Call me a lazy poster if you will, but I don't know where else to find an
answer to my questions. I need some specifics on wort aeration since I plan
to make a Belgian White for my next attempt to find Beer Nirvana. As I
understand it, Belgian beers need much more oxygen than most other kinds. I
decided to go with an aquarium pump and airstone, mostly because of the price
(<$10). Now for the real problem: Papazian says next to nothing about this
procedure, the yeast FAQ has very little on it as well. Brewing the World's
Great Beers by Miller has a little more, seemingly contradictory information
on the subject. Refering to the aquarium pump setup, I quote from the book:
"To use this wort aerator, simply insert it into the airlock opening in your
starter tank and let the pump run until the headspace is full of foam.
Repeat this every hour for 5 hours *after* pitching. Then remove the device
and let the wort settle for about 7 hours before racking the wort off into
your fermenter." After pitching? Everything I've read on the subject
says to not introduce oxygen once the yeast has been pitched. So Question
#1: does anybody follow this method of aeration? If so, has it seemed to
detrimentally affect your finished product? I am reluctant to pump room air
through my cooled wort. The accompanying illustration of this aerator shows
some kind of in-line filter attatched, but the book makes no mention of this.
Question #2: What is a good filter material to screen out the nasties
before they contaminate my precious fluid? And where can it be obtained?
Sorry to take up so much BW with such a small matter, but neither I nor any
of my homebrewin' buddies have ever aerated our wort in this way; we're all
more conventional shake & pitch brewers (and have turned out some fine beers,
I might add). Hope this isn't an old topic that has been beaten to death (I
may be lazy, but I DID check a few sources before I posted, but I'm sure not
all I could have). TIA for all responses, email is fine. If there seems to
be sufficient interest I'll post a summary.

[email protected]
-Ray Ownby-

Ninc est Bibendum (Latin; "Now is the time to drink")




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Sep 1994 16:34:35 +30000
From: Ted Shai-Hulud Bedwell
Subject: HELP

HELP

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Sep 1994 16:39:30 -0600
From: [email protected]
Subject: MORE ON DUNKELWEIZENBOCKS

Hey guys,

Ted Burnell makes mention of the fact that the clove and banana notes
diminish in a dunkelweizen or dunkelweizenbock. According to AHA
style guidelines dunkelweizens have banana and clove notes but to a
lesser extent then a standard weizen. It seems logical that the grains
used to color a dunkelweizen (often chocolate malt) will mask those
flavors since chocolate and other darker malts have a very strong flavor
compared to ordinary two-row malt (taste a Pikantus dunkelweizenbock
vs. a Kuchlbauer dunkelweizenbock). However if hops are subduing the
clove and banana notes to a large extent, perhaps there are too many
hops. IMO a weizen (even a weizenbock) should not be highly hopped,
only enough to balance out the malt. My dunkelweizen recipe is as
follows:

Unkel Dunkel Halfbock (5 gallons)
3 lbs 6-row malt
5 lbs wheat malt
1/2 lb chocolate malt
3.3 lbs NW weizen extract (I added this because my
extraction rate sucked and this was supposed to be a weizenbock -
hence the name of the recipe 🙂 I will add more grain next time.)
1 tsp gypsum
1 oz. Hallertau pellets (60 min)
1/2 oz. Hallertau pellets (30 min)
Wyeast 3056 (3068 next time!)
Add grains to 8 quarts 130 degree water treated with gypsum. Hold at
122 degrees for 45 minutes. Add 4 quarts 200 degree water and hold at
150 degrees for 40 minutes. Raise to 158 degrees and hold for 20
minutes. Mash-out at 168 degrees for 5 minutes. Sparge with 4 gallons
170 degree water.

OG - 1.065
FG - 1.015

As stated in a previous post of mine there were no banana or clove
notes due to the use of the 3056. I will use 3068 next time and cut the
chocolate malt to 1/4 pound. 1/2 lb made it very dark (but not too dark for
style guidelines), but 1/4 lb will be plenty to give it color and hopefully not
mask the banana and cloves.

Brew on my friends,
Mike ([email protected])

PS - The story of the bottle-throwing man by Mark Worwetz was
hilarious. Thanks Mark. It is humor like this that prevents the HBD from
imploding into a black hole of seriousness, which it is prone to do from
time to time.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Sep 94 00:14:41 EDT
From: [email protected]
Subject: temperature controller

Please, everybody substitute HDPE for my use of PVC in the context of a
boiling vessel, and CPVC for PVC in the context of plumbing for a RIMS system
in my previous post.
Also I was not clear about the boiling element I use. It is an electric
water heater element not a surface element(DO NOT TRY). The control is for a
stove surface element, the universal type AKA parallel, NOT serial which
limits wattage thruput.
Sorry for my mis-plucking and the ensuing confusion.
Don



------------------------------

Date: 24 Sep 1994 02:43:02 GMT
From: "EMS001"
Subject: WSZ551 NOT DEFINED TO THE UIHC INFORMM SYSTEM







>
> Mike Hansen comments that he felt that Wyeast 3068 should have been us
ed in
his
> dunkelwiezen bock for a more authentic flavor.This may be true but I u
sed
3068
> in a dunkelwiezen and a lot of the banana and clove flavor that I had
in
> previous wiezens seemed to be covered up by the flavors contributed
> by the grains(I could barely taste this character). I would guess that
this
> would be even more of a problem with a bock because of the increased h
ops.
Sam
> Adams dunkelwiezen does have nice flavor from the yeast, but I did not
have
> luck in replicating it. I may have used to much chocholate malt. Any r
ecipes
> out there?
Well, dunkelweizen varies so much that I won't give you a hard and
fast recipe.
The 3068 Wyeast (Wienstephan #68?) is the best one for the style that I
have
used. Cloviness is directly proportional to fermentation temperature.
If you want more, ferment a bit warmer.
For chocaolate malt, I would use no more than 0%. It's not appropriate.
Use some Munich malt (not the domestic if you can avoid it) to add
some toatiness. Then add some very dark crystal for color and
sweetness, German 120l crystal is the most traditional, but
I'm a big fan of Belgian cara-munich in this style. It gives
a really nice round elegant quality to this style
> Date: Wed, 21 Sep 94 10:19:56 EDT
> From: [email protected]
> Subject: Demerara=turbinado?
>
> All these descriptions of demerara sugar sound suspiciously like turbi
nado
> ("sugar in the raw"): golden-brown,1-2mm granules, .... I also know t
hat
Nope, not the same thing. I don't have the details, but demerara is
different. If you are lucky enough to live in an area with a latin popu
lation
the conical chunks of partially refined sugar that you usually find
with the produce at the supermarket makes a good substitute. Actual
"Sugar-in-the-Raw (TM) Tubinado "style" sugar is not even really
Turbinado. It's just sucrose and molasses. Check the helth food
section for the real stuff.

>
> > While it is understandable that the nationals have standards to
lend an aura,
> > this is hardly the case for a competition in Podunk, NY, or
whereever. And
> > I know the judges are just as anal, because one once made a big stin
k about
> > my 'clear violation' sending a bottle with raised lettering. Yet an
other
> > reasaon not to pay people to drink my beer.
Well, I lost the attribution of the poster, but as a judge that's
flamed people on forms for raised letters I'll respond to this...
It's clearly in the rules and all that. IU personally don't really care
what kind of bottle that you use, if I recognize the beer I will
disqualify myself. Like it or not, due to the contest regulations
your beer will normally be disqualified. It can't get a ribbon, and
it won't get to BOS. A while back I actually fought the organizers
(I forget where) to award a ribbon to a competition newbie that submitte
d
his entries in AAAS bottles. It was a fine beer and we certainly had
no idea whose beer it was. But you bet I flamed him on the form. I hat
e
to see him not get a ribbon in the next (stricter) competition that he e
nters
in.
PS: Remember, nobody is paying *me* to judge the beer. You are just
helping to pay for the logistic nightmare of organizing and running
a competition. I'm usually driving 50-150 miles and get maybe a
sandwich out of it (and sometimes some good beers). At least
I won't send you back comments on an oud bruin that says "too sour for s
tyle"
or "clovey, clearly infected" for a Weizen. That's the kind of
nonsense that annoys me when I enter beers.
Gary Rich
[email protected]
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 1994 09:48:40 -0700
From: [email protected] (Tom Pratt)
Subject: pumpkin brew
If I were to throw some pumpkin in the secondary with the intent of
coming up with a seasonal twist, how would I go about preparing the






pumpkin and how much do you suppose I should put in?
-Tom
[email protected]
(another lazy homebrewer who's hoping someone will spare a moment
and save me from buying books, searching archives, and/or following
links all over the freakin web!)
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 1994 12:30:15 -0400
From: [email protected]
Subject: Homebrew Supplies in Annapolis, MD
For homebrewers in the Annapolis, MD area: A new Homebrew supply
store just opened up two weeks ago. Chesapeake Brewing Co. 1930
Lincoln Dr. 410-268-0450. Knowledgable, friendly, helpful, good prices.
Good news for me and my kind, since the closest (sp?) is miles away.
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 94 12:17:43 CDT
From: [email protected] (Benjamin Butzer)
Subject: Demerara as used in Guyana
In a previous post [email protected] (RONALD DWELLE) stated:
> The recipe looks like a pretty normal light ale, but it has one
> ingredient I don't know--"demerara." (not too confident about the
> spelling). The recipe calls for one pound of it.
- -------------------------------------
U of M Library definition: "Demerara"
Berbice, Demerara, and Essequibo were established by Dutch settlers in t
he
early 17th century. In 1814 or 15 the three colonies were ceded to Great
Britain, which merged them in 1931 to form the colony of British Guiana,
the former colonies becoming counties. In 1966 British Guiana became the
independent nation of Guyana.
I grilled my next-cubicle-neighbor, Earl, who grew up in Demerara county
, about
the product "Demerara". He says that it is brown sugar from sugar cane.
It is
not like brown sugar that we buy at the grocery store here in the United
States. Apparently U.S. brown sugar is refined white sugar that has
molasses added. The consistency of Demerara is also less grainy than tha
t
of U.S brown sugar.
Earl says that it is added to hot water to make a sort of tea for breakf
ast
and supper. The other component for those meals being bread. Dinner at n
oon
is the main meal of the day in Guyana.
Apparently, any true brown sugar would be the equivalent of Demerara.
Benjamin Butzer ([email protected]) Com Squared Systems, St. Paul
, MN
- ------------------------------
Date: 22 Sep 94 18:20:00 GMT
From: [email protected] (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Red color/next piece of equipment/date codes
Paul asks how much roasted barley to get a reddish beer.
I suggest using one ounce and seeing if that gives enough red color
for what you are trying to make. Anything more than about 2 ounces

------------------------------

Date: 24 Sep 1994 02:43:02 GMT
From: "EMS001"
Subject: WSZ551 NOT DEFINED TO THE UIHC INFORMM SYSTEM







secondary to the bottling bucket.
My question today is whether those of you who skip even the secondary
have any success in getting a firmly packed sediment in the bottle. If
it's possible to avoid a loose sediment after a primary fermentation
only, then it looks like we need to look to other factors to explain it.
There seems to be enough interest in cider to justify posting to hbd,
but private email is okay, too.
Don't fall out of the apple tree,
Bob Paolino
Disoriented in Badgerspace
- ------------------------------
Date: 22 Sep 1994 08:34:34 U
From: "Rad Equipment"
Subject: Attn. California Clubs
Subject: Attn. California Clubs Time:8:17 AM Date:9/
22/94
Sixteenth Annual California State Homebrew Competition
November 12, 1994
Entry deadline: October 15th.
The San Andreas Malts are once again sponsoring the California State Hom
ebrew
Competition, which will be held on November 12, 1994 in San Francisco.
This competition strives to promote brewing clubs and recognize individu
al
achievement in amateur brewing, to which end we encourage clubs from thr
oughout
California to get their members' beers to San Francisco. As in the past,
your
members can enter through your club or by winning an award in some other
competition within the state during the past year. Rumor has it that a n
umber
of new clubs have been organized in order to qualify brewers for this
competition in the past. We encourage this practise if it helps to foste
r the
growth of homebrew clubs in California. I have already sent information
packets
to all clubs known to me and am making sure any unknown clubs get the wo
rd by
listing the event electronically. Apologies to the Internet world outsi
de
California.
Both the Sierra Nevada Homebrewer of the Year and the Anchor California
Homebrew Club of the Year will be announced at the event. We also hope t
o
extend the hours of the event this year in order to allow more socializi
ng and
relax the frenzy of calculating the award winners. To facilitate this we
have
mover the competition from Sunday to Saturday. We also hope that this ch
ange
will encourage more long distance judges to participate.
This is an AHA sanctioned competition.
If you have any questions send your US Mail address to the Internet addr
ess
below or phone me.
We expect to have a great time and look forward to seeing your club repr
esented
at the judging this year.
Russ Wigglesworth (INTERNET: [email protected] - CI$: 72300
,61)
UCSF Dept. of Radiology, San Francisco, CA (415) 476-3668 / Home (707) 7
69-0425
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 94 11:55:54 EDT
From: Eamonn McKernan
Subject: Smithwicks / beer in the fridge
Hi there, I'm new to this digest and I wanted to start off by saying tha
t
it has been a great source of information for me already. Thank you one
and
all!
Tom was looking for an extract recipe for Smithwicks, and I happened to
have
been in the same situation as he around 4 months ago. I went to my neigh
borhood
Wine-Art store and was provided with the following:
2 tins Pale Ale (1.5 kg each for 19L, 1.8kg for 23L)
125g Pale Ale grains
1 tsp Irish Moss
250 g Brew Body
3 (3 3/4) cups corn sugar for 19L (23L)
Ale yeast
Since there are no hops in this recipe, I assume the tins of pale ale ex
tract
are meant to be hopped kits. Maybe someone else out there in cyber space
wants
to suggest a nice variety (and amount!) of hops to use in the event that
you
might prefer unhopped extract. Frankly, my experience with this recipe
suggests that it's not worth the bother.






Typical of the bad advice that I have recieved from this particular wine
art
store (Torontonians beware the Avenue road franchise. I've heard good th
ings
about the one on the Danforth), they suggest that everything except the
Irish
Moss be boiled (with adequate water) for 15 min. As recent HBD contribut
ors
have noted, it's best not to boil the grains. Steep them in the already
boiled
and cooled wort, or add them to warm water, and remove them before it co
mes
to a boil. Add the Irish Moss in the last 3 minutes of the boil, then c
ool,
add to more water (enough to give you 19/23L of wort) , pour into the pr
imary
with good aeration, and pitch the yeast. Oh yeah, add the sugar at the e
nd of
the boil as well. Final gravity around 1.006
I had to rack this beer to the secondary before it's time (there was sti
ll
lots of activity after 4 days) because I was going away on vacation, but
I
ended up with a stuck fermentation, and despite re-pitching yeast and nu
trient
at a later date, ended up with a very sweet over-carbonated beer. ie. a
second fermentation waited until bottling before kicking in. I wish you
better
luck. Let me know how it turns out!
And now a question:
I've had very bad luck when refrigerating my bottled homebrew. 3 or 4 da
ys in
the fridge is enough to kill all sweetness in the beer, and make it quit
e
unpleasant to drink. I know that sweet taste buds are less sensitive at
cold
temperatures, but equally cold homebrew which is not refrigerated (coole
d
quickly in the freezer) tastes delicious. This effect happens with a num
ber of
different kinds of brew, and sometimes even seems to vary between bottle
s.
I've also noticed that some micro-brewery beers also behave strangely wh
en
refrigerated. What's going on here?
/
Eamonn McKernan
[email protected]
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 1994 09:18:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Rich
Subject: dunkelweizen/sugar/raised letters
> From: BURNELLT
> Subject: wyeast 3068

------------------------------

Date: 24 Sep 1994 02:43:02 GMT
From: "EMS001"
Subject: WSZ551 NOT DEFINED TO THE UIHC INFORMM SYSTEM







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Precedence: bulk
Subject: Homebrew Digest #1535 (September 24, 1994)

HOMEBREW Digest #1535 Sat 24 September 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Re. kegging (Stan Fisher)
Racking cider (uswlsrap)
Attn. California Clubs ("Rad Equipment")
Smithwicks / beer in the fridge (Eamonn McKernan)
dunkelweizen/sugar/raised letters (Gary Rich)
pumpkin brew (Tom Pratt)
Homebrew Supplies in Annapolis, MD (WSPEIGHTS)
Demerara as used in Guyana (Benjamin Butzer)
Red color/next piece of equipment/date codes (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 97
9 8583)
homegrown hop update ("David Sapsis")
Brewing Schools? (TWETZEL)
Carboy Diem (David Draper)
Help needed with SS keg plumbing (Greg Ames)
Anchor Spruce Beer (Jeff Guillet)
Need Victoria BC Ale Fest Info (Tom Baier)
re: Origins of MEADE (Dick Dunn)
A Very Satisfied Customer (Jack Skeels)
DC AREA BREWERS (aaron.banerjee)
yeast cell lifespan (RaceBrewer)
steel cut oats (Frank J. Leers)
Weisen Experiment ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
Hoptech / Celis ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
thanks... (abaucom)
Re: Hops in starters; autoclaving (Keith Frank)
Steam (tm) beer (Allan Rubinoff)
Scoth Ale Question (MELOTH MICHAEL S)
Starters n' such (Brian A Nummer)
Re: Kegging ("nancy e. renner")
Harpoon Octoberfest ("Terence McGravey 91942 ")

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- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 1994 07:49:03 -0600
From: [email protected] (Stan Fisher)
Subject: Re. kegging
>>Question: What CO2 pressure/time-length is needed to artificially car
bonate
>>5 gallons O'beer?
>>
>>(the keg is refrigerated, the CO2 is not, and the beer was primed with
1 cup
>> malt extract for several weeks and had pressure when I initially tapp
ed it)






>>
>>PS...the beer tastes great...just flat...
>
>No problem. Pressure up to 35 to 40 psi and shake for several minutes.
>Then let the beer settle for several hours before bleeding down the
>pressure and sampling.
Ouch! Does anyone have the "Volumes of CO2" chart in ascii to post or m
ail
to these folks? 35 to 40 psi is a roll of the dice! If you shake too
long
you've got a gusher if you shake to short (time) you're still flat.
example: If your beer is at 40 degrees F and you want 2.5 volumes of CO
2
in your beer (based on style), you set your CO2 regulator at about 12.5
psi
and shake until it's saturated. If you connect your CO2 up to the draw
tube side instead of the normal CO2 in side, you can hear the CO2 bubble
up
through the beer as you shake. This also gives the beer better exposure
to
the gas as it comes in. At the point that shaking no longer causes more
CO2
to enter the keg (no more burble sound), you are done. Let it sit over
night
to settle the foam inside and tap. 35 to 40 psi would only be required
if your
beer is very warm, in fact hot. Check page 184 in The Home Brewers Comp
anion.
Stan
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Stan Fisher [email protected] - 165.247.1.4
(602) 893-3620 (H) I brew therefore I am.
(602) 470-4443 (W) Friends don't let friends drink Light Beer.
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 94 11:33:39 EDT
From: [email protected]
Subject: Racking cider
- ----------------------- Mail item text follows ---------------
To: I1010141--IBMMAIL
From: Bob Paolino
Research Analyst
Subject: Racking cider
Along with the suggestions I offered in reply to the cider "how-to"
inquiries, I asked about the loose sediment I always get in my ciders
(regardless of yeast, et cetera). It doesn't take much of a disturbance
to turn my sparkling clear cider to a cloudy, murky (but still tasty)
liquid.
I promised to summarise replies, but received only one, which pointed
out that vintners rack their wines several times, and the same would
probably apply to cider. Today, however, I read John Faulks' post on
cider in which he suggested that racking even to a secondary was purely
optional in his opinion. (What kind of results have you had?)
With what I see at the bottom of the primary, I wouldn't want to skip
the secondary, but there's not much by the time I'm ready to rack from

------------------------------

Date: 24 Sep 1994 02:43:02 GMT
From: "EMS001"
Subject: WSZ551 NOT DEFINED TO THE UIHC INFORMM SYSTEM







starts to really flavor the beer significantly.
Offline, Norm and I talked about this a little and he suggested that
Belgian Special B grain will add reddish color. Although I've never
tried making a pale beer with Special B (all the ones I've made up to
now were dark), it might be a better suggestion than the roasted
barley. If you overdo the roasted barley, you could add too much
sharpness or coffee-like aroma to the beer, but Special B is a dark
crystal and its raisin-like flavor might be more appropriate even
if overdone. With Special B, you can start at 2 ounces and work your
way up from there.
Just for reference, DeWolf-Cosysns Roasted Barley is about 557L, whereas
their Special B is about 221L.
*******
Jerry writes:
>What would have a bigger (positive) impact on my brews, a carboy to use
>as a secondary or a wort chiller (imersion type).
My vote is for the immersion chiller. Reducing Hot Side Aeration was,
in my opinion, the biggest improvement in my beer. Rather than buying
a glass carboy for a secondary (when you get around to it) I suggest
using the carboy for a primary for ales and a secondary for lagers. The
cheapest place to get glass carboys, BTW, is from the water companies.
Some still do have glass available and the deposit is only about $6.00
(surely less than what they pay for them).
*******
Speaking of date codes (well, Jerry was, anyway), does anyone know
how to read the new Sierra Nevada codes? It's a four digit code
painted onto the shoulder of the bottle. I suspect it's the last
digit of the year followed by the day of the year (i.e. 4118 would
be the 118th day of 1994 or April 28, 1994). Anybody know for sure?
Al.
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 94 11:47:21 CST
From: "David Sapsis"
Subject: homegrown hop update
This is a follow-up to my post in HBD #1529 on use of wet vs. dried
homegrown hops for use as aromatic additions. One correction I would li
ke
to post is that the low level oil referred to as myracine is in fact spe
lled
myrcene, and I'd like to Al Korzonas for pointing out my mistake. Howev
er,
I do believe that very high levels of this compound are present in
non-dried hops, and this adds a significant difference to their
aromatic profile, as long as the hops never reach high temperatures (as
in
late kettle additions) or are not subjected to CO2 scrubbing (as in
additions in primary ferment).
As it has been about 20 days since we added the two hop forms to the ser
ving
vessels, the differences between the two Liberty clones has become
significantly greater. As I noted, aromatic differences were very evide
nt
early, and these differences remain, with a generally lower level of
"dry-hopping" detectable in the wet version, and the perfumey, somewhat
vegetal nose persisting. However, flavor differences that were only
relatively minor after one week, have become very pronounced over time.
Distinct flavors of pine/citrus, somewhat reminiscent of grapefruit are
all
over the wet-hopped sample. These differences, are to my palate, quite
objectionable, but I infer this to be mostly due to conditioning (by thi
s I
mean habituation, not carbonation). That is, if all hops used were trea
ted
like these, then these flavors would be expected, and consequently proba
bly
be more desireable to me. In any event, the results of this experiment
indicate significant differences in both the nose and mouth of identical
ly
treated beers with the only independent variable being hop moisture cont
ent.
Noting that piney/citrus compounds are a major group of the aromatic oil
s,
it would be interesting to find out where they lie in their relative
volatility. I plan on posing this question to Gail Nickerson.
On another note, also relating to the use of wet hops as presented in
hop.faq, hops are *not* 80% water; that is, there is not 4 times the mas
s of
free water as that mass leftover after drying. Consequently, the sugges
tion
of using 6 times as much mass of wet hops as dry ones is way off base.
All
hops are measured for moisture using a dry weight basis, so 100% MC
indicates that hops at this level of moisture are one-half water. Thus,
assuming all other things equal between wet and dry cones, one would us
e
twice as much fresh, wet hops as an equivelent mass of dry ones. I susp
ect
that some of the reports relating to harshness from use of wet hops may
be
due to using about three times the equivelent measure, and then drawing






comparisons!
Also, in the hop.faq there is a fairly strong indication that various ho
p
varieties are for bittering, and others are strictly for aromatics. My
experience is that some hops are really quite well suited to both, and t
hat
this is not restricted to using conventionally aromatic hops for bitteri
ng
(e.g., Cascade). I have had excellent results using Nugget for aromatic
s,
and I think that my suggestion for reserving prescious homegrown hops fo
r
aromatic uses applies to all varieties, not just those used by conventio
n.
Although the majority of high-apha hops were indeed developed for their
bittering capabilities, many brewers I am aware of use them in a variety
of
circumstances. I hope that all you homegrowers out there experiment wit
h
the use of your harvest, and post the results, particularly if they expa
nd
on the generally accepted practices that have been laid down. The art a
nd
science of brewing, like all the universe, is dynamic, and that's what m
akes
it interesting.
Cheers,
David Sapsis [email protected]
Wildland Fire Research Laboratory
Dept. Environmental Science, Policy, and Management
U C Berkeley
voice: (510)642-8053 fax:(510) 643-5438
"From fire everything is created, and in
fire everything ends up."
- --Heracleitus (502 B.C.)
- ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 1994 16:25:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Brewing Schools?
Greetings Beer-L'ers,
In addition to being a newbie on the 'Net, I'm a newbie to homebrewing.
So far
though, my 2 batches (one pils and one IPA) haven't caused any physiolog
ical
damage to me--my cat however, still prefers milk.
My question: Is there such a thing as a Brewing School, and if so, where
? Does
anyone know of a source of info on this? I'm trying to find a current co
py of
Zymurgy to look for ads about such things, but can't find the magazine l
ocally.
Nonetheless, forgive me if this sort of thing is common knowledge.
TIA,
Pretzelmann <--- notice the German spelling :-)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Sep 1994 01:45:06 -0600
From: [email protected] (Automagical Mail Responder)
Subject: Re: Racking cider



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------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1536, 09/26/94
*************************************
-------

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  3 Responses to “Category : Various Text files
Archive   : HBD153X.ZIP
Filename : HBD1536

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