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#1 (948 lines):
Date: Thursday, 12 May 1994 03:00 edt
From: homebrew-request at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM (Request Address Only - No Articles)
Subject: Homebrew Digest #1422 (May 12, 1994)
Reply-To: homebrew at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM (Posting Address Only - No Requests)
To: homebrew at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM
Errors-To: [email protected]
Precedence: bulk

HOMEBREW Digest #1422 Thu 12 May 1994


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
Wyeast 1338 for wheat beers (allison shorten)
cooker source found (cheap) (Gregg Tennefoss)
Parallel Yeast Cultures ("WLK:wbst311.xerox")
Bleach in Pools vs. Sanitizing (John DeCarlo x7116 )
Parallel Yeast Cultures ("WLK:wbst311.xerox")
Light Beer ("pratte")
Re: wheat and corn (Jeff Frane)
Mashing Breakfast Cereal ("Little, David")
legal advice needed ("JSDAWS1@PROFSSR")
The uses of "Malta Goya" ("Rafael Busto")
Parallel Yeast Cultures ("WLK:wbst311.xerox")
Homebrew Clubs in San Jose Area (wyatt)
Brewing in Arizona (Tim Anderson)
plastic secondary (Tom Pratt)
Homebrew Digest #1421 (May 11, 1994) (James M. Brewster)
Dunkleweizen and Homebrew BBS (Fred Waltman)
Midlothian Scotch Ale (Rich Larsen)
Digest reader for Mac (John Glaser)
later (Jeremy Ballard Bergsman)
Re: California Common Ale (Sturdy McKee)
New BrewPub revisited (Parks Welch)
Re: Dark Weiss & Kegging Questions (Brew Free Or Die 11-May-1994 1535)
novice sparging questions (TODD CARLSON)
nerdy ramblings on nomenclature and sanitizers... ("DANIEL HOUG")


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 20:34:58 +1000 (EST)
From: allison shorten
Subject: Wyeast 1338 for wheat beers

In his discussion on making Bavarian-style wheat beers in "The Complete
Handbook of Home Brewing", Miller recommends Weihenstephan 338 ale yeast,
claiming it "has too much clove for an altbier, but makes an excellent
Weizen" (p215).
In view of the similarity in numbers, does anyone know whether this is
the same yeast as Wyeast 1338 European ale, and/or if this strain is
useful for this beer style?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 07:46:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected] (Gregg Tennefoss)
Subject: cooker source found (cheap)


I was at a local Sam's Club last night and found that they have two cookers
in stock. The traditional king kooker with pot and basket was $49.99. Then
I dicovered that they had a 200000btu jet cooker for $26.99. The jet cooker
is not as tall as the king but it is heavy duty and appeared to be made well.

cheers

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 04:53:09 PDT
From: "WLK:wbst311.xerox"@com.xerox.com
Subject: Parallel Yeast Cultures

Greetings:

Having read Homebrew Yeast FAQ, I am attempting to produce parallel yeast
cultures from a package of Wyeast 1056, which I understand to be a good
all-around yeast. Last week, I started a 5 pint starter of sterile wort, and
pitched the inflated Wyeast, this into a 1 gal. carboy. This fermented out
nicely in a week or so, and I then bottled about five bottles of yeast-laden
brew for subsequent starters. I ended up with some remarkably trub-free yeast
in the bottom of each bottle. Yesterday, I decanted a bottle, and pitched the
yeast slurry into a 1.5L bottle along with a half pint of sterile wort. This
morning it was fermenting well, so I guess this whole procedure does, in fact,
work. All that is left to do is build up my starter with some more sterile
wort, and pitch the works into my next batch-o-brew.

I have one big question, however. Once I have bottled the yeast, at what
temperature should I store the bottles? Wyeast packets are, of course,
refrigerated, and since my resultant bottles will be treated just like packets
of Wyeast, should I treat them as such temperature-wise? Any answers, input, or
comments are very welcome. Thanks
Bill King

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 94 07:52:58 EST
From: John DeCarlo x7116
Subject: Bleach in Pools vs. Sanitizing

Chip Hitchcock mentions that swimming pools have up to 1 ppm of chlorine
and then guesses at recommended amounts for sanitizing.

The recommended amounts for sanitizing are in the 50-200ppm of chlorine,
in cold water with no organic material, for 15 minutes.

How much you should add of your household bleach is left as and exercise
for the reader. Consider that old bleach containers may not have the
same concentration of chlorine as new ones.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: [email protected]


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 05:52:10 PDT
From: "WLK:wbst311.xerox"@com.xerox.com
Subject: Parallel Yeast Cultures

Greetings:

Having read Homebrew Yeast FAQ, I am attempting to produce parallel yeast
cultures from a package of Wyeast 1056, which I understand to be a good
all-around yeast. Last week, I started a 5 pint starter of sterile wort, and
pitched the inflated Wyeast, this into a 1 gal. carboy. This fermented out
nicely in a week or so, and I then bottled about five bottles of yeast-laden
brew for subsequent starters. I ended up with some remarkably trub-free yeast
in the bottom of each bottle. Yesterday, I decanted a bottle, and pitched the
yeast slurry into a 1.5L bottle along with a half pint of sterile wort. This
morning it was fermenting well, so I guess this whole procedure does, in fact,
work. All that is left to do is build up my starter with some more sterile
wort, and pitch the works into my next batch-o-brew.

I have one big question, however. Once I have bottled the yeast, at what
temperature should I store the bottles? Wyeast packets are, of course,
refrigerated, and since my resultant bottles will be treated just like packets
of Wyeast, should I treat them as such temperature-wise? Any answers, input, or
comments are very welcome. Thanks
Bill King

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 9:38:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]


Subject: All-grain...how I did it

ALL-GRAIN...HOW I DID IT by Rick Gontarek


Greetings all. Recently I posted that I made my first all-grain batch
this past weekend, managing to do so without spending lots o' dough.
Due to the overwhelming response I received, I've decided to detail
how I went about it. Bear in mind that by opening my technique up to
the digest, I stand to take a fair amount of criticism for how I did
certain things. I'm not saying that I may not have done a few things
wrong, but it was a positive experience that I hope might inspire
others to begin a foray into all-graining. Of course, all comments
are welcome.
I purchased 15 lbs of pale malt from a local homebrew supply
shop for about $15 (already a great savings over extracts). I am
fortunate to have a friend who owns a Corona grain mill. So Sunday
morning I made myself a pot of coffee (too early for homebrew) and
began to crush the grains. It was fun! Yes, there was shrapnel and
dust everywhere (I'm still blowing it out of my nose!), but it was
nothing that a quick sweep job with a broom couldn't take care of.
I have two friends that have all-grained using grains crushed in a
blender. If this is your option, do several short pulses and only par-
tially fill the blender with grain. This will take some time, but it
can be done. Some will indoubtedly argue that this is stupid,
but in a pinch a blender does the job.
My recipe was as follows:

Golden Ale

8 lbs. Pale malt
0.5 lbs cara-pils (dextrin) malt
0.1 lbs (2 ounces) Crystal malt (20L)
0.5 ounces Cascade hops (pellets)
1.2 ounces Williamette hops (pellets)
Sierra Nevada Yeast starter (yeast originally obtained from the
Frederick brewing company)

I did a single-step infusion mash. In a five gallon stainless steel
pot, I heated 2 gallons of water to 170 degrees F. To this was added
the crushed grains...the temperature then fell to 156 degrees F. I put
the lid on and was surprised at how long the temp kept steady! I measured
the temp with a thermometer (an essential requirement), and when it fell
two degrees, I cranked the heat on for a few minutes (gas stove). While
stirring constantly, the temp went back up to 156 degrees in a matter of
moments. After one hour, an iodine test revealed conversion to sugar.
BTW, I bought the iodine at a local pharmacy for $1.29. In another pot,
I had three gallons of water at 170 degrees F. After starch conversion,
with the help of my lovely (and tolerant) wife, I proceeded to pour
the mash through a large kitchen strainer into a clean bucket. The
grain was poured through the strainer a little at a time and rinsed a bit
with some of the 170 degree sparge water. The spent grains were then placed
temporarily into another pot. When all the grains were drained and rinsed
once,I added the rest of the sparge water to the grains, swished it around,
and poured the gamish-mash through the strainer again. Yes, a lauter-tun
was borrowed from a friend (a plastic bucket from the hardware store with
a bunch of holes drilled through it) and was used to strain anything
remaining in the pre-wort.
At this point I had about 5 gallons of wort. I poured this into
my 5 gallon pot, and it came up to the tippy-top, leaving no room for
boiling, etc. So, I merely poured about half of the wort into another
pot! These were brought to a boil, and 0.5 ounces of Cascades were added
to one pot and boiled for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, half of the
Williamettes were added, and boiling continued. After another 30 minutes,
the heat was turned off and the remaining Williamettes were added.
I put the pots into my bathtub filled with cold water. Because the
heat from the pots rapidly warmed the bath water, after about 10 minutes
I drained the tub, filled it again with cold water, and added some ice.
Of course, I kept the lids on the pots the whole time so as not to allow
the green fuzzy things growing on the walls of the bathtub to get into
my precious wort (just kidding about the green fuzzy things...we keep
a clean bathroom!). I made it to 70 degrees in about 40 minutes.
The contents of the pots were then strained into an anxiously-awaiting
glass carboy. I brought the volume up to almost 6 gallons with cold water,
and then pitched the yeast. Tonight I transfer to a secondary, adding
1 ounce of Cascades to dry-hop, and then wait 'till early next week
to bottle.
If anyone wants more details, please send email and I will try
to help you out. By the way, many of you helped me figure out my
extraction rate (37*6/8.6=25.8 pts/lb/gallon, not bad for a first try!).
Thanks so much for everyone's advice/help.
I hope that my use of bandwidth had inspired many of you to
just do it. I love to cook, and spending an extra 2 hours over my
brewpot was therapeutic for me. A few of you had also written to
me stating that you have aversions to liquid yeast. Go for it, I
say! Your beer will be much better. I have successfully cultured
yeast for several months now, and now I have collected several
different strains from local brewpubs and microbreweries. It takes
very little extra work/time, and it is well worth it. Besides, it's
sort of cool to tour your local micro and ask for some of their
yeast! What a hobby! What a country! I love beer!
Sorry, I got carried away. Anyway, I will let all of
you know how my beer turns out. I suspect that it will be
tasty and well worth the extra effort.
Until next time..."Keep your feet on the ground and keep
reaching for that bottle of homebrew".

Rick Gontarek
[email protected]


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 08:44:45 EST
From: "pratte"
Subject: Light Beer


Several days ago, somebody (I believe [email protected]) asked a
question about brewing lighter beers. While I haven't tried the
method, last year's summer (or maybe fall) Zymurgy edition has an
article on one method for doing it. The article was called
"Quarterbock". It recommended making a bock beer (initial SG 1.080),
letting it fully ferment, and then diluting it with water during the
bottling process. This way, your lite beer has more flavor since it
has all of the tasty products made during the initial stages of
fermenting a high alcohol beer. It sounds like a reasonable process
for getting more flavor into a low alcohol beer, and should be worth
the try.

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 06:46:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: [email protected] (Jeff Frane)
Subject: Re: wheat and corn


Dan Wood wrote:

>
> My friend Dave, an infrequent homebrewer (aka heathen), claims to have
> recently drank a "dark weiss" made in Germany. I contended that it would
> be difficult to make such a beer conforming to the German beer purity law
> (R_?). Can someone please settle this? I suspect that I'm wrong, they
> must be able to use roasted grains, how else could they make Beck's Dark?
>
A couple of things: your buddy was most likely drinking dunkelweizen
(readily available in the U.S.), which is a dark wheat beer (not *real*
dark, but considerably darker than the usual). They can get their color
from a number of methods (see Eric Warner).

You are apparently under the misimpression that the Rh***bot (don't ask
me to spell it!) forbids dark grains. The restriction is that they use
malted barley, but there's nothing against roasting the barley once
malted. In fact, some dunkelweizens even use roasted malted wheat.

Mark Castleman isn't afraid to spell it!:
>
> I am toying with the ideea of making a very light ale for the summer
> round-up and much to the chagrin of my Rheinheitsgebot following SO I am
> thinking about using corn. Can you use flaked corn (maize) with extracts
> or does it need to be mashed? How about corn or rice syrup?
>
One of the advantages of using flaked maize is that you do not need to
cook it, but I'm a little non-plused when I read something like "can you
use X with extracts or does it need to be mashed?" What exactly do you
*do* with any adjunct if not a mash? Even a pseudo-mash? Surely you
aren't actually boiling this stuff, ala CP?

Try doing a simple infusion of grains -- whether caramel malts or flaked
wheat -- for 45 minutes or so at 150, then rinse them and add all the
liquid to your pot and add the extract to that.

Personally, I think flaked maize is one of brewing's golden secrets, and
have used it in very good (really!) lagers, abbeybiers and pale ales.
But syrup? I guess I'm still something of a bigot and I'll let them use
syrup in glop like malt liquors -- not in my beer, thanks!

- --Jeff




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 94 10:25:00 PDT
From: "Little, David"

Subject: Mashing Breakfast Cereal


In Issue #1418, Richard Webb asked

>> Any other unusual brewing ingredients out there?

I'm brewing a Pecan Ale tonight. I got the original recipe from John Pratte.
He had a couple of methods to add the pecans but I've chosen to make a small
side batch of unhopped wort (1# amber extract and 2 cups water) while I'm
doing the specialty grains (Crystal and Chocolate malts). After boiling the
mini-wort, I'll put a cup or so of chopped pecans into it and let it steep a
while. When the main wort is finished, I'll strain out the nuts and pour the
mini-wort in with the rest of the wort. Since the mini-wort was unhopped, I
can now roast the pecans and snack on them while waiting for the "Main
Event" to finish fermenting.

David
Internet: [email protected]
CIS: 72133,1056

------------------------------

Date: 11 May 1994 07:35:07 PST
From: "JSDAWS1@PROFSSR"
Subject: legal advice needed

After several years, my nextdoor neighboor has decided that brewing beer
in my kitchen produces noxious odors in the hallway between our units. It's
always been my understanding that brewing is a form of cooking food, which
can not be legislated or restriced if done in one's home.

However, I believe he's trying to use his current position as vice-president
of our condominium association to get it to impose restrictions or prevent
my brewing beer in my kitchen. Consequently, I think I need some specific
legal advice, and maybe the name of an attourney in the SF bay area
(preferably a homebrewer). Thanks in advance

| Don't anthropomorphize computers... They don't like it. |
| ------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| JACK DAWSON - JSDAWS1 - 415 545-0299 - CUSTOMER BILLING (BG) |

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 10:57:48
From: "Rafael Busto"
Subject: The uses of "Malta Goya"

Two days ago I bought from my local grocery store a bottle of
"Malta Goya" (33 cents) and when I tasted it at home I thought
"Gosh, this stuff actually tastes and smells like real wort!".
The label said that is made from "Barley Malt, corn sugar, and
choicest hops" sounds familiar?
Anyway, this beverage is very sweet and I was thinking if
somebody has any experience in using it as either part of your
wort or as a priming agent. Another use would be as a yeast
culture solution.
Anyway, if you want to explain somebody what "wort" is and how
smells, save yorself some time and money and buy malta Goya.

Regards, Rafael

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 08:00:05 PDT
From: "WLK:wbst311.xerox"@com.xerox.com
Subject: Parallel Yeast Cultures

Greetings:

Having read Homebrew Yeast FAQ, I am attempting to produce parallel yeast
cultures from a package of Wyeast 1056, which I understand to be a good
all-around yeast. Last week, I started a 5 pint starter of sterile wort, and
pitched the inflated Wyeast, this into a 1 gal. carboy. This fermented out
nicely in a week or so, and I then bottled about five bottles of yeast-laden
brew for subsequent starters. I ended up with some remarkably trub-free yeast
in the bottom of each bottle. Yesterday, I decanted a bottle, and pitched the
yeast slurry into a 1.5L bottle along with a half pint of sterile wort. This
morning it was fermenting well, so I guess this whole procedure does, in fact,
work. All that is left to do is build up my starter with some more sterile
wort, and pitch the works into my next batch-o-brew.

I have one big question, however. Once I have bottled the yeast, at what
temperature should I store the bottles? Wyeast packets are, of course,
refrigerated, and since my resultant bottles will be treated just like packets
of Wyeast, should I treat them as such temperature-wise? Any answers, input, or
comments are very welcome. Thanks
Bill King

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 94 08:40:25 pst
From: [email protected]
Subject: Homebrew Clubs in San Jose Area

I recently heard that there was a homebrew club in the San Jose Ca.
area and was wondering if somebody had some information on it (them?).
I always thought that there must be at least one around here but never
pursued it. Any information on clubs, meeting dates and places, and
nature (activities, do they have a yeast bank, etc.)of club(s) would
be helpful as well as telephone #'s of the people to get in touch
with. Thanks in advance for any info.



Wyatt Jones
[email protected]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 94 08:40:38 PDT
From: [email protected] (Tim Anderson)
Subject: Brewing in Arizona

Soliciting some info from homebrewers and beer enthusiasts in Arizona,
and the Phoenix/Tempe areas in particular. Please respond via email.

1. Where do you go for microbrewery beer? Is it well received?

2. What pubs offer their own beer? What other beers do they carry?

3. Where do you buy homebrewing supplies?

4. Do you brew in the summer?

5. If a facility was made available where you could brew beer, would
you use it?


Muchas Gracias,

tim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 08:50:47 +0800
From: [email protected] (Tom Pratt)
Subject: plastic secondary

I just picked up a second refrigerator and I was thinking about
doing some lagering. My original equipment was all plastic but
I picked up a 6 1/2 gallon glass carboy because the stout recipe
I've been using wasn't content to stay inside a 5 gallon plastic
bucket. Anyway, is it a definite bad idea to lager in plastic,
as I'd like to continue to make ales in the bottle while fridge
time passes?

Or should I just spring for another bottle? My hobby is starting
to consume a lot of space and I think my SO is starting to get
concerned. (And she thinks there will be room in the new fridge
for a soda or two - ha!)

-Tom

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 12:45:48 -0500
From: [email protected] (James M. Brewster)
Subject: Homebrew Digest #1421 (May 11, 1994)


>My friend Dave, an infrequent homebrewer (aka heathen), claims to have
>recently drank a "dark weiss" made in Germany. I contended that it would
>be difficult to make such a beer conforming to the German beer purity law
>(R_?). Can someone please settle this? I suspect that I'm wrong, they
>must be able to use roasted grains, how else could they make Beck's Dark?

Yes, roasted malts (black patent and chocolate) are OK. Roasted barley is
not. Dave probably had a Bavarian Dunkelweizen.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 09:51:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: [email protected] (Fred Waltman)
Subject: Dunkleweizen and Homebrew BBS

Dan Woods ask about dark German wheat beers:

It is not *roasted* grain per say that is not allowed under the
Reiheitsgebot, but *unmalted* grain. So a roased malt (like chocalate
malt, etc.) would be OK, but roasted unmalted barley (as used in stouts)
would not. And yes, Dunkleweizen beers are to be found in Germany.

Someone else asked about Homebrew BBS. These are the ones I know of:

Maltose Falcons-Falcons Nest 818-342-0530
Homebrew U (SW Campus) 713-923-6418
Homebrew U (Midwest) 708-705-7263
No Tarmac Brewing 703-525-3715
Bettter Brewing Bureau 415-964-4356
Terminator 214-625-2448

Don't remember speeds on any of them except the Falcons Nest and it will
handle 9600 baud.

Fred Waltman
Culver City Home Brewing SupplyA
[email protected]


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 11:56:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rich Larsen
Subject: Midlothian Scotch Ale

Wow! I'm so humbled... I guess there is life out there in the net

The response for requests for the Scotch Ale recipe was large
enough to post so,

First of all the recipe is constantly being modified and played with.
A lot of the times, I change a hop, modify a temp, change a specialty
malt, or something. But the base usually is the same. If any of you
saw my article in the Winter '93 issue of Zymurgy on hop tables then you saw
one of the versions of the recipe. The recipe is all grain, but I suppose
if you substitute light or pale malt extract for the base grain, and use
the specialty malts as is, you will come close.

First the recipe I talked about in the post.

15 lbs Belgium Pale Ale
1 lb Crystal 40L
1/4 lb Roasted Barley

Water adjustments (for Chicago Water)
1/2 Tsp Salt
1 1/2 tsp Gypsum

I use the salt for chloride ions. I'm no expert on water treatments so
don't ask me why. I read that chloride helps to round out the flavor, so
I add it. I'm not even sure it makes a difference.

Mash 152F 60 Minutes
168F 10 Minutes (Mash out, to raise the temp for sparge, mostly)

Hops :
1 oz Perle 6.8% (P)
2 oz Fuggle 3.6% (F)

Min P F <---- If you have trouble with this hop schedule table,
60 3/4 Read my article 🙂
45 1/4 1/2
30 1/2
15 1/2
F 1/2

Wyeast Scottish

SG 1.070 FG ~1.014

I got a poor extraction rate on this recipe for some reason, if you do
better, expect a much higher OG or drop the base malt a few pounds.
For example, look at the next recipe, which is the base recipe.

-------------------------------

12 lbs English Pale Ale
1 lb CaraPils
1 lb Crystal 40L

1/2 tsp Salt
1 1/2 tsp Gypsum

Mash 125F 30 Min
149F 45 Min
158F 45 Min
168F 10 Min

2 oz Kent Golding 5.4% (K)
1 oz Fuggle 3.6% (F)

Min K F
60 1/2
45 3/4 1/2
30 1/4 1/4
15 1/4

Wyeast British
SG 1.068 FG 1.020

Enjoy!


I hope y'all have as much luck with it as I did!

=> Rich

Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514
The Blind Dog Brewery "HomeBrewPub", Midlothian, IL
(Not a commercial establishment)

"I never drink... Wine." Bela Lugosi as Dracula




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 94 10:53:41 -0700
From: John Glaser
Subject: Digest reader for Mac

This may be a little late, but a while ago, someone was looking for a digest
reader for Macintosh computers. There is one I used in the past called "Digest
Browser", which I got by ftp from sumex-aim.stanford.edu. I think the file was
"browser*.hqx or something like that. It does work for the HBD, I just tested
it. If it is no longer available, I will be happy to upload it. I forget what
kind of *ware it is, but I never used it much. Hope this helps.

John Glaser ([email protected])


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 11:35:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremy Ballard Bergsman
Subject: later

> Subject: Dark Weiss & Kegging Questions
>
> My friend Dave, an infrequent homebrewer (aka heathen), claims to have
> recently drank a "dark weiss" made in Germany. I contended that it would
> be difficult to make such a beer conforming to the German beer purity law
> (R_?). Can someone please settle this? I suspect that I'm wrong, they
> must be able to use roasted grains, how else could they make Beck's Dark?
>

The purity law has no prohibition on using dark grains, as long as they are
malted (i.e. no unmalted, roasted barley).

> From: [email protected] (Troy Downing)
> Subject: gueze culture
>
> Has anyone tried starting a yeast/bacteria culture from a bottle of
> Gueze lambic? I'm curious what might still be viable in a bottle of this
> and what kind of beer it would produce. I'd like to hear if anyone has
> tried this and what the results were.

Subscribe to the lambic digest: [email protected]
(Forget getting anything from Lindemann's. And if you are not pretty
skilled at culturing you won't get everything you want from the bottle.)

> From: "Palmer.John"

> Subject: Chlorine Concentrations
>
> Now I have been using 1 tablespoon per gallon (4ml/l) (1/2 ounce/gallon) and
> letting it sit for 20 minutes. By looking at the articles above, the reader is
> left with two handfuls of chlorine, looking at his stainless steel keg and
> saying Well...?
> Does anyone know how many ppms are in a mg/liter??! And how many fluid ounces
> per gallon that is?!!

1 liter = 1000g so 1 mg/l = 1 ppm. The next question is harder since you must
know how many mg of Cl/oz. Bleach is usually "5.25% Sodium hypochlorite."
(.0525 g/ml)*(35 parts Cl/107 parts NaHClO3)*(29 ml/oz) = .49 g Cl/oz
If you want 1 gallon of 100 ppm you need (3.8l*100mg/l)/(490 mg Cl/oz)=0.77 oz

My only reservation here is the conversion to free chlorine, which I have
assumed to be 100%.

Isn't chlorine much safer for SS at high pH? Isn't this why CTSP is a common
cleaning/sanitizing agent?

> From: MARK CASTLEMAN
> Subject: Adjuncts & Extracts
>
> I am toying with the ideea of making a very light ale for the summer
> round-up and much to the chagrin of my Rheinheitsgebot following SO I am
> thinking about using corn. Can you use flaked corn (maize) with extracts
> or does it need to be mashed? How about corn or rice syrup?

I think you would be better off going with syrup (or just plain corn sugar)
as a source of corn if you don't want to mash. Most of the carbohydrate
of the corn will be starch, which you don't want in your wort. Why not
do a minimash with as much palt malt as corn?

> in #1420 Ed wolfe writes:
>
> - --I'd also like to hear from anyone who has
> experience and/or insights about how to set up a ventilation system for
> using one of these oxygen suckers in a basement.

There are often posts about oxygen needs for these cookers. I just happened
to be looking at the 1991 Uniform Mechanical Code, which specifies 50 cubic
feet of free air space per 1000 Btu/hour. What this doesn't speak to is
the venting of the carbon monoxide. Just a data point.

Jeremy Bergsman


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 11:43:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sturdy McKee
Subject: Re: California Common Ale

Hi, I'm new at this email thing and at homebrewing. I've so far brewed 4
batches of reasonably decent beer and a crisp hard cider. Right now I
have a "Steam Beer"TM in bottles and am wondering if I haven't
experienced my first major setback. I used an amber extract and a couple
pounds of various lovibond crystal malt for complexity. I hopped
heavily, 2 oz boil, 1 oz finishing, and .5 oz dry hopping 2 days before
bottling. I used WYeast California Common liquid lager yeast, which is
supposed to behave well at temperatures below 62 F. The initial
fermentaion went well, racked over to secondary after 5 days, let stand
in secondary about 10 days. I primed with about 2/3 c corn sugar at
bottling and came out with 50+ bottles. The green beer was a bit sweet,
but nice hoppiness and full body. Everything appeared to be on track to
my inexperienced eye. After 2 1/2 weeks in the bottle, the beer is
almost completely lacking carbonation. I have sediment at the bottom and
the beer is a beautiful, amber color. I know I'm impatient but I wanted
to drink my beer. After 1 1/2 weeks, the beer was flat and sweet, and I
went and added Windsor dry ale yeast to several bottles to see if I
couldn't pick up the carbonation. Nothing. I admit that the
fermentation temp has been above 62 F for most of the time, but shouldn't
the ale yeast have taken off? How long should I expect to wait before
this beer should be carbonated and drinkable? Or does it sound as if
this beer has failed? What should I do to save my precious 5 gal? As
Papazian says, maybe I have ruined my beer by worrying, but I was excited
about this brew and want it to be ready in another 2 1/2 weeks for a
special occasion. Any advice is welcome and greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Sturdy
[email protected]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 14:48:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Parks Welch
Subject: New BrewPub revisited

I hope I'm doing this correctly.

1. I just read Peter's notice regarding the new brewpub. We are supposedly
getting a new one here in Winston-Salem also when our new shopping
center gets built. From my understanding, the person opening the brewpub
currently carries
beer from all over the country and ships it everywhere. I think the
concept must be similar to Peter's brewpub. I don't know the business
address but if anyone is interested, his home address is:

1170 Foxhall Drive
Winston-Salem, NC 27106 (or maybe 27104, I'm not sure which)

2. What is the best way to get started brewing your own beer - - ie.
books etc.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 94 15:35:07 EDT
From: Brew Free Or Die 11-May-1994 1535
Subject: Re: Dark Weiss & Kegging Questions

In HBD # Dan Wood asked how to measure/monitor the pressure in a keg.

Here are plans for a Keg Pressure Tester and Relief Valve that you can attach to
your soda kegs to read the internal pressure. It is similar to one that was
described by Dan Fink in an issue of Zymurgy. It has multiple uses. You can
check keg pressure with it, to see if your keg has developed a leak, or to see
if CO2 is going into solution. (Note: the valve on a CO2 regulator doesn't
perform this function. It tells you how much CO2 the regulator will attempt to
place in the keg when it is attached). You can use it to bleed pressure from
the keg via the needle valve, if your keg is old and doesn't have a pressure
relief valve built in (not recommended). If you are transferring beer from one
sealed keg to another, you can crack the needle valve just barely to allow
built-up pressure in the receiving keg to escape slowly. Otherwise, when
pressure was equal in both kegs, the transfer would stop.

The prices and catalog numbers are from Foxx Beverage Corp, September, 1991.

ITEM CATALOG # DESCRIPTION COST
1 07C07-115 Ball Lock Disconnect, Gas, 1/4" MFL 3.13
2 05B01-215 1/4" FFL x 1/4" FFL Swivel 1.21
3 05B01-183 1/4" MFL x 1/4" MPT Male Half Union .28
4 05B01-105 1/4" Female Pipe Tee 1.11
5 03G07-142 Gauge, 1/4" MPT, 0-60 PSI 4.35
6 05B01-224 1/4" MFL x 1/4" MPT Brass Needle Valve 3.50

Cheesy ASCII Graphics (redundant term) follow:

------
_____ -\__/- /-- ----------- _/ \
| --- _/--\_ \__ | 4 | _ 5 |
/ \ ---- ---- \ /
| | 2 3 | | -----
| |
| | | |
| | | __|
| |
1 \ /

6

The quick-disconnect (item 1) can be ball or pin. Its outlet is 1/4" male
flare. The 1/4" FFL x 1/4" FFL swivel (item 2) and the 1/4" MFL x 1/4" MPT
male half union (item 3) are there simply because there was no other way I
could find to connect the pipe tee's (item 4) 1/4" female pipe threads to the
quick disconnect's 1/4" male flare threads. The gauge (item 5) and the needle
valve (item 6) had male 1/4" pipe threads, so it was easier and cheaper to
just use those and adapt the pipe T to the Q-D.

Seal all pipe threads with Teflon tape and away you go. Enjoy!

-Dan, getting psyched for Denver!

P.S. For far too many months, I've been meaning to send this to Dion Hollenbeck
for inclusion in the kegging FAQ. Dion, you're welcome to it if you like.

- --
Dan Hall Digital Equipment Corporation MKO1-2/H10 Merrimack, NH 03054
[email protected] ....!decwrl!buffa.dec.com!hall

"Adhere to Schweinheitsgebot
Don't put anything in your beer that a pig wouldn't eat" --David Geary

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 94 15:59:03 EST
From: [email protected] (TODD CARLSON)
Subject: novice sparging questions

I am preparing to try my first all grain batch and had some
questions about the sparging process. I plan to use a
spargatron (converted drip coffee pot) to deliver sparge
water. I would appreciate any hints on the modification
and use of this apparatus. I have made a double bucket
lauter tun but I am concerned about the large volume between
the buckets. Should I a) decrease this with some helpful
hind from the collective wisdom of the HBD or b) not worry.
Finally, when I do partial mashes, there is a lot of
water/wort in the grains after sparging (crudely, with a
ladle and a collander). In full scale, efficient sparging,
should I a) stop adding water and recover the final runnings
by draining the grains "dry" or b) keep adding sparge water
to the top until the end and leave the grins "wet". Thanks
in advance for the help.

todd
[email protected]

Philisophical Question: If our tap water, which comes from
Lake Michigan, runs through an immersion chiller and down
the drain into the sewer where it is treated and dumped in
the Grand River which flows back into Lake Michigan, am I
wasting water?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 15:34:09 CST
From: "DANIEL HOUG"
Subject: nerdy ramblings on nomenclature and sanitizers...

John Palmer asked for clarification on ppm vs mg/l. Here's my
attempt at making a mountain out of a mole-hill (chemists, get it?).
I'm a real thrill at cocktail parties. YAWN.

Parts per million is a common unit of measurement for expressing trace
concentrations of the quantity of an analyte with respect to the
weight of a sample. This can be expressed many ways as on a wt/wt
basis, wt/vol, or vol/vol. Each expression has its associated
nomenclature. All the below express parts per million or ppm:
wt/wt = mg/kg or ug/g
wt/vol = mg/l or ug/ml
vol/vol = ul/l or nl/ml

The easiest way to make sense of this is to equate ppm with mg/l,
though this may technically get you in trouble with some really picky
analytical chemists. Unfortunately, there is no other kind (JUST
KIDDING).

Sanitizers and you. Listed below are 4 methods of sanitizing (not
necessarily STERILIZING) equipment based upon the Minnesota
Department of Health food sanitation code. Your mileage may vary.

1.) Immersion for a period of 30 seconds in clean water of at least
170 degrees F.

2.) Immersion for not less than 1 minute in 75 degree or warmer
water containing:
a) not less than 50 ppm of free available chlorine if
hypochlorites (bleach) are used.
b) not less than 200 ppm if chloramines are used.
c) not less than 50 ppm if trichloromelamine is used.

3.) Immersion for not less than 1 minute in 75 F or higher water
containing not less than 12.5 ppm available iodine in a solution
having a pH not higher than 5.0

4.) Immersion for at least one minute in water of 110-130 F
containing not less than 200 ppm and not more than 400 ppm of a
quaternary ammonium solution.

What does all this really boil down to? Start with perfectly clean
equipment, sanitize with boiling water or bleach. If bleach is used,
shoot for 50 to 100 ppm (get your test papers!) which is a capful or
two per gallon. Rinse off the sanitizer with boiled water. I think
about 800 zillion other people have said this but its simple and
works. My personal opinion is to not fiddle with all the other stuff.

Usual Disclaimer: I'll deny everything. You're all adults, make up
your own mind. All opinions expressed are strictly my own, not the
MN Dept of Health, Clorox Inc., or those 800 zillion other people.

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1422, 05/12/94
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