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#5 (1129 lines):
Date: Wednesday, 26 January 1994 03:00 est
From: homebrew-request at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM (Request Address Only - No Articles)
Subject: Homebrew Digest #1334 (January 26, 1994)
Reply-To: homebrew at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM (Posting Address Only - No Requests)
To: homebrew at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM
Errors-To: [email protected]
Precedence: bulk

HOMEBREW Digest #1334 Wed 26 January 1994


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
keeping fingers intact (Jonathan G Knight)
Re: Beer Bread ("J. Hunter Heinlen")
Calorie count for diabetes? (Phil Bardsley )
Lovibond Glasses/Heat Shrouds (npyle)
Mashing with IGLOO Cooler (Kelly Doran)
Extract storage (GNT_TOX_)
Sam Adams T-shirt offer (Mark Worwetz)
Alert! (Mark Garetz)
WORT AERATION (708) 938-3184"
Re: Minnesota Brewfest (James D Rickard-1)
Hazelnut Extract Beer (Michael Froehlich)
Potentail Extract - Who's Right? (dmorey)
Miscelaneous (Ulick Stafford)
Sierra Nevada (Richard Nantel)
hb clubs in chicago area (Thomas A. Nawara)
It just doesn't get any better... (Glenn Tinseth)
FLAT beer ("Paul Austin")
Book review: "Evaluating Beer" (Spencer.W.Thomas)
How long to prime??? (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Re: Bitters (Jim Busch)
The Demise fo the Yeast Culture Kit Co. (Jim Busch)
Wyeasts (Ulick Stafford)
Oktoberfest trip and Munich Brewery Tours. (Bob Kosakowski)
FAQ/Archives???? (WKODAMA)
shippin brew (BadAssAstronomer)
Question on flavor ("Bill Knecht")
Sterilization prior to bottling (gary_krone)
Rye Malt ??? ("Mark B. Alston")
lagering (Montgomery_John)
'conditioning' lager (Ashley Morris)
Grant's recipe request (Mark Stewart)
oldenberg, breckenridge, sam's cran (Mark Bunster)
yeast from trub (sekearns)
Dry hopping - How to? (George)
Capital Region Microbrewers Festival (Aaron Morris)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 1994 13:14:13 -0500 (cdt)
From: Jonathan G Knight
Subject: keeping fingers intact


My thanks to the MANY folks who e-mailed me to save me from the error of my
ways. I was thinking about how to cut a hole in my plastic bucket to install
a spigot and naively said something about one of those "retractable razor
blade thingies."

FOR ANYBODY OUT THERE WHO WAS ABOUT TO MISTAKE MY QUESTION AS ADVICE: DON'T
DO IT !!!!

Along with many stories of gouging, gashing, slashing and bleeding much too
gory to recount here - I am now petrified of using my retractable razor blade
thingie on anything stronger than wimpy cardboard - the overwhelming majority
of respondents also provided the solution: a 1-inch "hole saw," available at
your friendly neighborhood hardware, on a power drill. I do have a drill, I
just didn't know what a hole saw was - and now I do!

Hope this data point is useful to anyone out there who has the misfortune of
being as un-handy as myself. Thanks again, all.

Jonathan Knight
Grinnell Iowa Keeping signatures short for the benefit of brewkind.

------------------------------

Date: 24 Jan 1994 14:13:56 -0500 (EST)
From: "J. Hunter Heinlen"
Subject: Re: Beer Bread

Greetings, all...

In HBD #1332, Zach Fresco ([email protected]) asks if anyone has any good
recipes for beer bread. Why, yes, I do. (insert trademark evil grin here |>
Ingredients:
12 oz bottle of your favorite beer
3 1/2 - 4 cups of self rising flour
4 tablespoons sugar or 3 tablespoons honey
other flavorings as per taste (rasins, apples, nuts, gralic, onions,
etc.)
Procedure:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (not C or K). Put flour, flavorings, and
sugar (honey) in mixing bowl. Open beer. Sigh at realizing that you can't
drink it now. 🙂 Pour it into bowl. Stir until all of the flour is 'wetted'
(it now a dough without lumps). Be careful not to overstir, as this will
produce beer brick, not beer bread. Grease a dutch oven, bread mold, or
something similar. Pour dough into it, and place in oven. Cook until it sounds
hollow when you thump it, or a toothpick thrust into its center returns clean.

+*****************************************+***********************************+
| This is only a test of the Emergeny |J. Hunter Heinlen |
| Ontology System. Had this been a real |(AKA SCA Jacobus Jager Draake) |
| moral delima, you would have been told |(Internet:[email protected]) |
| what to beleive. - The Government | Ideas Contemplated While You Wait |
+=========================================+===================================+
1,000,000 Lemmings Can't Be Wrong!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 94 14:28 EST
From: Phil Bardsley
Subject: Calorie count for diabetes?

Hi all,

Does anyone know how to calculate the calories of the non-alcohol
portion of homebrew (short of hiring a lab)? I have diabetic
friends who'd like to try my homebrew. It tends to be sweet,
since I mash at a high temp and add crystal and carapils malts.
I'm wondering if I can assume the final gravity is all due to
unfermentable, but fully digestible, sugars, then somehow figure
the amount of sugar that you'd need to add to 12 oz of liquid to
equal that specific gravity. Any ideas? Thanks. Phil
[email protected]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 94 12:32:25 MST
From: [email protected]
Subject: Lovibond Glasses/Heat Shrouds

Thanks to Dr. Fix for explaining the Breiss color test, but he wrote:

> The Lovibond reading for these were measured with Lovibond glasses.

Are these anything like those 3d glasses from those movies in the 1950s?? 😉
Sorry, sometimes I can't help it...

**

Its interesting to see that "heat shrouds" are now being discussed/built out
there. My boiler, designed around a 10 gallon SS cream can, has a built-in
shroud. My father-in-law designed/built it (what a guy), and I thought that
it was unnecessary, especially when we had to modify it (read: drill bunches
of holes in it) to allow exhaust to escape. It now works fine and,
apparently, is saving me lots of propane. I say "apparently" because it is
the first model I've owned, and have no other point of reference. It looks
like he was right on this one.

Cheers,
Norm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 1994 12:07:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Kelly Doran
Subject: Mashing with IGLOO Cooler

I'm new to the HBD, so here is a little information
about myself along with my two questions.

I have been brewing for 2 years now and have made
4 all-grain batches with a friends equipment. With
my own equipment, I'm planning to use a 5 gallon
IGLOO cooler for a mash tun. My 2 questions are:

1.) When using a 5 gallon IGLOO cooler, how
many pounds of grain will it hold and
still be able to maintain an exceptable
water to grain ratio for the mash?

2.) How much will the temperature drop in
45 to 60 minutes using a single infusion
mash?

Thank you for your time,
Kelly Loyd Doran



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 94 15:12 EST
From:
Subject: Extract storage

If I buy a can of extract, and use, say half of it. Can I store the
other half in the freezer? How long will it keep? Do I need to purge
it before storage.

I'd probably put it in a small food grade bucket with a snap lid.

Andrew Pastuszak
Philadelphia, PA


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 1994 14:08:35 -0700 (MST)
From: [email protected] (Mark Worwetz)
Subject: Sam Adams T-shirt offer

Howdy from Scum Lick City, Utah!

A few months ago I received a Sam Adams(tm, of course) propaganda leaflet
that contained an irresistable FREE T-SHIRT offer. Being a collector of
such drivel I filled it out and mailed it away. I've since heard nothing
from them. Has anyone else seen this offer? Has anyone received anything?
Is this an attempt by local law-enforcement to capture illegal Utah
homebrewers? WHAT HAVE I DONE?!!

Mark Worwetz
No longer relaxed and getting worried behind the Zion Curtain.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Jan 94 21:54:32 PST
From: Mark Garetz
Subject: Alert!

To all, especially homebrew suppliers:

I just received a message from a homebrew shop owner who said that someone
called him, claiming to work for HopTech, and selling bumper stickers.
The caller claimed his name was Mark Rizzo and was based out of San
Diego. He was very rude to the shop owner. The shop owner had talked to
us before and knew we didn't do business this way, and so suspected
something was up.

HopTech has no knowledge of this person, he does not work for or represent
our company. Be aware that HopTech does not make unsolicited phone calls
(or even send literature). IF YOU RECEIVE A CALL OF THIS NATURE, IT IS
FRAUDULENT! Please get a number where you can return this person's call
and let us know immediately. We will inform the appropriate authorities.

If anyone has received similar calls, please contact us with the details.
Email is prefered. Leave a number where I can get back to you. If you
have received similar calls with offers to sell bumper stickers from other
companies, let me know too. If anyone has knowledge of this person,
please contact me as well.

Please let's not waste further bandwidth with a lot of "oh wow" responses.
Let's just get to the bottom of this quickly and quietly so we can nip it
in the bud.

Thanks in advance for the help of the on-line community.

Mark Garetz
HopTech

------------------------------

Date: 24 Jan 1994 16:00:00 -0600 (CST)
From: "Michael D. Hansen (708) 938-3184"
Subject: WORT AERATION

Hi All!

Short, simple question: Has anyone ever used a small air compressor (the type
that drives an airbrush, for example) to aerate their wort?

TIA and Brew on My Friends!
Mike ([email protected])

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 1994 16:55:19 -0600 (CST)
From: James D Rickard-1
Subject: Re: Minnesota Brewfest


Wow! I posted about a mistake made at the '93 Minnesota Brewfest, how my
Haggis Chaser Scotch Ale was judged as a Belgian Trippel. While I was
reading the digest in the morning, sipping some hot coffee, my emailbox
rattled announcing a new letter. It was Cushing Hamlen, a representative
of the MBA. He promised to get to the bottom of the problem, and sure
enough called me a few hours later with my entry sheet in hand. I was
promised a refund, but opted for a free entry in the next 'fest.

I guess my 1 was written a lot like a 2. Fair enough.

I am impressed by the speed of his reply, and the fact that he was willing
to set everything to right this long after the contest. Too bad that I am
out of that batch, he even offered to re-judge it for me. (Ulterior motive?)

BTW, I heartily endorse the Minnesota Brewfest. It was a blast! I
understand that my plight was a rarity. I can't wait til the next one!

See you there!

Jim Rickard
Homebrewer from Heck



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 94 16:04:02 PST
From: [email protected] (Michael Froehlich)
Subject: Hazelnut Extract Beer

Fellow Brewers,

I have found a great source for natural extracts. I tasted
the Oregon Nut Brown Ale featured in Zymurgy and found it
to be one of my favorite beers tasted this year (and that
covers alot of beers). I couldn't find any hazelnut extract
in the stores however and I talked with several brewers
and couldn't get any info. I found a company near LA
that makes baking extracts and extract syrups used for
flavoring coffees. I bought a 2 lb jar with a pump dispenser
for $19 plus $3 shipping and they gave me a 1 oz sample of
the 100% pure extract after I told them what I was brewing
beer.

So, I brewed 3 batches of Nut Brown Ale (4 gallons each).
In one of the batches, I used a Hazelnut Extract (100% pure, 1 oz).
In another I used a Hazelnut Syrup (used for flavoring coffee, 4 oz).
The 3rd beer was not flavored. These beers were well received
by my homebrew clubs as well as other brewers. The pure extract
needed more aroma (probably use 2 oz per 5 gallons next time) and
the syrup had a very strong hazelnut aroma as well as a drier
mouth feel from the additional fermentation. The syrup is made
with some form of fructose sugar but it did not impart any
odd flavors. I would use about 3 oz per 5 gallon next time.

The name of the place is Capriccio and is located in
Chatsworth, CA (phone (310) 535-6610 ). They have over
100 different pure extracts and over 50 flavors of the syrups
used to flavor coffee. The only problem that I had was
buying such a large quantity of the syrup. You can only
drink so much of this beer. The pure extract is more expensive
but you can buy 1 lb jars.

I have nothing to do with this company other than being a
happy camper by making odd beers with their product
and drinking them. _______
/ \
o | Cheers! |
o ____ .\_______/
o |o o| . Michael Froehlich
|~~~| (| > |) (310) 647-1482
| |)\ |\_/|
| | \ \_/ [email protected]
|___| \ |
OOOOO

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 1994 19:23:29 -0600
From: [email protected]
Subject: Potentail Extract - Who's Right?

Hello my fellow brewes,

It seems that I reopened a can of worms when I asked about
the extract potential of dark malts last month. I have been
reading all responses since that time with interest. First,
there seems to be TWO major points of confusion: extract and
specific gravity.

EXTRACT: The total solids derived from mashing malted barley and
sometimes malt adjuncts such as corn or rice. Principally
includes maltose, non-fermentable dextrins, and protein. These
extracts in solution determine the starting gravity of the wort.
(This definition is from BETTER BEER and HOW to BREW IT, M.R.
Reese)

SPECIFIC GRAVITY: A measure of density of a liquid as compared
to water. The ratio of the mass of a given volume of a substance
to the mass of an equal volume of water at a temperature of 4 C.
(For us brewers, this is the amount of soluble matter, not only
sugars, in the wort as compared to an equal volume of water).
>From TNCJoHB, Webster's compact dictionary, and me.

Now for example, let us look at a hypothetical wort composed
of 25% dextrins and 75% maltose (From David Line, TBBoB pg 127)
produced by infusion mash 150 F pH 5.1. Lets ASSUME this is a
five-gallon batch and we are going to use 8 lbs of pale malt with
an expected extraction of 31 pts gals / lb. Also let ASSUME as
Reese suggests that dextrins are non-fermentable. Our wort will
then have the following predicted characteristics:

Projected OG: 1 + ((31 * 8) / 5) / 1000 = 1.050
(This is our potential extract)

Projected Fermentables: 0.75 * 50 = 38 pts of fermentables
(Projected OG - FG in pts)

Projected Dextrins: 1 + ((0.25 * 50) / 1000) = 1.013
(Lowest possible terminal gravity)

In this wort, the potential extract IS NOT the expected
fermentable soluble matter in the wort. It is a total measure of
the mass extracted during the mash process, this matter may
contribute to fermentables, non-fermentables, head retension,
color, flavor, etc.... My point is don't confuse specific
gravity and potential extract as the measure of fermentable
products in the wort, if this was the case and yeast where
*alcohol tolerant* our final gravities would always be 1.000!
This leads me to my next point, extract potential of dark
malts. Earlier I had given a value of 27 pts gal / lb, another
isputed my numbers and gave 0 (none), while lately you have
probably seen a range of 0-3 pts gals /lb given. So who is
right? WE ARE BOTH RIGHT. When I use dark malts, I crack them
and use them for the WHOLE mash schedule (2 Hrs). If I were to
add the dark malts whole during mash out or the final 10 minutes,
I could probably expect only 0-3 pts gal / lb extraction. The
major factors are malt/grain preparation and time. Longer time
give higher extracts. Crushed vs whole will also give higher
extract.
I hope this helps you understand the difference between
potential extract and fermentable products. Also I hope that
this will give you an idea of which point value to use when
calculating potential extract for your brewing process.
Finally, I would like to say that I believe that my value of
27 pts gals /lb for dark malts and grains seems high when we are
only expecting 22 pts gals / lb from crystal. This is the reason
I posted my original question. Thank you for your time and again
I hope the material given justifies the length of this post. I
think I'll go have a homebrew now.

==========================================================================
Dan A. Morey | Wine is proof that God loves us and wants to
[email protected] | see us happy. - B. Franklin
Agricultural Process |
Engineer | The same is true for BEER! - Me
==========================================================================






------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 94 20:50:32 EST
From: [email protected] (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Miscelaneous

In hbd 1332 Wesman burnt Grolsch tops. I don't know about others, but I
always remove Grolsch tops prior to satitizing etc. Thank you, Al, for
explaining your procedure. I assume a Viniator is some kind of perfume
atomizer. However, I fail to understand your reservations about my method
of dunking in a laudery tub. The laundery tub is permanently full of
sanitizer for equipment, so using so much is not a factor. I top it up by
emptying carboys full of sanitizer in (I store with a bleach solution).
I submerge them all in less than 5 minutes and rinse with a JET rinser while
the beer is racking into the bottling bucket. I don't worry about the outsides
because all the chlorine and water evaporates quickly anyway. I find this
technique much better than the oven method, which I found energy inefficient,
time inefficient (oven couldn't take enough for 1 batch), foil inefficient,
but worst of all whenever I racked a well lagered beer, the CO2 woulod come out
of solution on nucleation points in the dry bottle and foaming was a real
nuisence.

I did an infusion mash with Belgian Pilsener malt the other day and got lousy
extract (perhaps 6 pt (B) per lb per gallon). A decocted batch from a week
earlier got around 8. Anyone have similar experiences?
__________________________________________________________________________
'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s@&* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng.
Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556
| [email protected]


------------------------------

Date: 24 Jan 94 22:12:32 EST
From: Richard Nantel <[email protected]>
Subject: Sierra Nevada

Sierra Nevada this. Sierra Nevada that. I'm sick and tired of all this talk
about Sierra Nevada pale ale. We can't get the stuff up here in Canada so
quit rubbing in how great it is. I've read more about this beer on HBD than
any other. I'm dying to try it. Anyone out there have a tried and tested
all-grain recipe for something similar?

TIA

Richard Nantel,
Montreal, Quebec
Canada (the Sierra Nevada-less country)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 03:21:00 -0600
From: Thomas A. Nawara
Subject: hb clubs in chicago area


hello, i'm new to the digest (and to home brewing),
and have therefore perused the archive for information
of interest to me. however, almost all of the articles
concerning chicago area home brew clubs seem to be over
a year old - is there anyone out there who could tell
me the current status of the chicago beer society,
the headhunters homebrew club, or any other such club
in the area?
thank you very much.

-tom nawara
[email protected]
ideaLABS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 1:40:55 PST
From: [email protected] (Glenn Tinseth)
Subject: It just doesn't get any better...

I know, it's a line from a bad beer commercial but it's true. It's late
Monday night in Oregon and the rain has stopped for an hour or so. I've spent
the evening listening to Pearl(Perle?)Jam/Meatloaf/Indigo Girls and packing
50 pounds of incredibly pungent hops. The girls (wife and 1 yr. old) are
asleep and I have a pint of homebrewed Belgian style Double next to the
keyboard. To make it even more noteworthy, this is my first post in many
months, due to loss of net access.

Those of you who have long memories will recall that I was working on some
hop utilization studies many months ago. This work continues and has been
quite surprising. How does 21% alpha acid utilization sound for a 90 min. boil
with whole hops? Lower than you've read? Me too! In addition, the curves I
have seen so far do not look at all like the familar and much discussed Rager
numbers. The 'S' shape of the Rager curve is not what we are seeing with our
numbers. I'll try to show you the general shape we are seeing below. It is the
typical 1st order curve for a chemical reaction. Imagine a smooth curve...

| ****************
| **********
| *****
| ***
| **
| *
| *
| *
| *
|*
|*
|________________________________________
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 (min)

More will follow as more data is analyzed. Anyway, just wanted to say hi to
old friends and new, and to be part of the best digest on the Internet again.

Glenn
- --
Glenn Tinseth
The Hop Source
[email protected]
(503) 873-2879

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 08:49:44 EST
From: "Paul Austin"
Subject: FLAT beer

My batch of Steam came out FLAT. Funny thing is, the first bottles
I opened nearly exploded! That was the first week after bottling,
when I opened some small 'tester' bottles. Recent openings (now
two weeks after) have little fiz at all. HELP?

I used a standard Steam recipe, 6-7lbs malt, crystal malt, northern
brewer and cascade hops.

Why did the first few bottles almost explode and have GREAT heads
but subsequent openings have no fizz? The stuff tastes great, but
I want some head!

Private replies welcome.

Thanks,
Paul Austin, Brewer of Malcolm's Catskill Amber since 1993

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 09:23:30 EST
From: [email protected]
Subject: Book review: "Evaluating Beer"

A strong second to that recommendation. I just finished it (having
received it a couple of months ago). The book consists of reprinted
articles from a variety of sources (Zymurgy, New Brewer, etc.), some
of which would be difficult for the average homebrewer to find.

I used to have a folder full of reprints that I had gleaned from
various sources. All the stuff in that folder, and more, is in this
book. The most valuable stuff, IMHO, for me now (especially as I'm
studying for the BJCP):
* Expanded flavor categories table. The original table on
which the "Beer Flavor Wheel" was based.
* Troubleshooting table. A fantastic table, reprinted from
the New Brewer, listing various flavor/aroma components, and
their sources in ingredients, process, or packaging &
handling.
* Several "Dr. Beer" charts. The one I hadn't seen before
comes from the Siebel Institute, and gives recipes for
creating most of the flavors you'll find in beer -- NOT just
the off-flavors, but things like "rose", "pear", and other
"normal" flavors. Also, almost all the recipes use stuff
that's easily accessible to the homebrewer (e.g., not .003g
acetaldehyde -- where am I going to find acetaldehyde,
anyway?)
* The G. Fix beer color article.

There is some repetition, as you would expect given the variety of
sources, and there are a few chapters I could do without, but on the
whole, it's a good piece of work. If you're a serious brewer, and
especially if you're considering becoming a beer judge, this is a book
you should have on your shelf (or at least on a shelf you can easily
borrow it from).


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 09:31:16 EST
From: [email protected]
Subject: How long to prime???

You should mix VERY GENTLY. Here's what I do: I boil up a cup or so
of water with the priming sugar. Then, after I've siphoned a bit of
beer into the bottling container (I use a carboy, not having a plastic
bucket I trust near my beer), I gently pour in the sugar solution, and
continue siphoning. I figure the currents from siphoning mix in the
priming solution pretty well. Boiling the sugar solution reduces the
chance of infection and deoxygenates it.

=S

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 1994 09:51:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Busch
Subject: Re: Bitters

Someone asked about bitters:

OG: 1.034-1.042, roughly.
FG: 1.010 ish, sometimes lower, sometimes a bit higher.
Additions of Caramel malts are most common, some brewers add sugar,
many brew a 1.055 ale, and dilute it down.
Hops: Styrian Goldings (just tried this for the first time, real nice flavor
and aroma hop, seems very goldings to me, even if the stock is Fuggles).
East Kent Goldings, Fuggles, Willamette (in a pinch).
IBUs: 30-40.
Yeast: Wyeast London, Youngs, Fullers cultures.
Dry hopping at 1/2 - 1 oz per 5 gallons is almost mandatory.
Cask conditioning is the authentic way to go, kegging and serving with low
CO2 levels is close.

My latest bitter:
CaraVienna, CaraMunich, Munich, Aromatic in 5,2,7,1 percent of mash grist.
OG: 15P, watered down in kettle, then watered down 2/5ths in carboy, resulting
in a 9P (1.036) bitter. Hopped with Perle/S. Goldings in kettle, all S. Gol
in flavor, finish, dry hopping. FG 2P (1.008).

For extract brewers: as in any extract brewing, use the lightest dry malt
extract available, steep the caramel malts in water, for the flavoring of
the beer, use the DME for raw OG.

Good brewing,
Jim Busch

"DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 1994 10:00:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Busch
Subject: The Demise fo the Yeast Culture Kit Co.

It is with great sadness that I am announcing the demise of the Yeast Culture
Kit Co. My friend, Dr. Martin Schiller, has decided to liquidate the
remaining inventory and concentrate on other endeavours. Those of you who
have supported this labour of love are thanked.

The liquidation of inventory will continue through the end of March. If
you are interested in restocking any supplies, yeast banks, etc, call or
write to Martin, 301-231-8211.

It is interesting to note that when this company began, there was one
dominant yeast vendor in the marketplace, and one yeast bank supplier.
Now the market has numerous alternative suppliers, who are carried by
large distributers. Never before have so many high quality strains of
yeast been available to homebrewers, at an affordable price.

Best,
Jim Busch

Flames to /dev/NULL, I have absolutely no financial interest in this matter,
I am merely providing an announcement service.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 10:01:10 EST
From: [email protected] (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Wyeasts

Someone asks about Wyeast Irish ale. I find it to be a good general ale
yeast. I presume it is suitable for Irish ales, similar ot bitters
from its name (but then Wyeast names often have no relation to the source).
I can say that it is not a Guinness strain. The latter is a wonderful top
cropper, while the wyeast seems to act alot lower in the beer.

Al mentions W34/70 as being the Wyeast Bohemian strain - could be true -
isn't the pilsener yeast a St. Louis strain, i.e. Wyeast names bear
no relation to the source. However, I did read somewhere that the
Wyeast Bavarian yeast is used by many Munich breweries, although my source
for this could well be Wyeast propaganda to be taken with a grain of salt.
I must go check the yeast FAQ to see if the 'Urquell' for the Wueast
strains is listed. If not it would be useful additional information.

P.S. As far as I know Falstaff is still available in this locale. It
comes in cheap cases of returnables - although not the cheapest (Rhinelander,
Wisconsin club, etc.). Many of their other products are available Balantine
IPA, some mlat liquor brand.... Haffenreffer. It is easy to tell a Falstaff
beer by the riddle inside the cap. They have a brewery in
Fort Wayne, although they seem to have more abandoned breweries than most
companies, e.g. right beside the Skyway on I-90.
__________________________________________________________________________
'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s@&* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng.
Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556
| [email protected]


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 10:10:55 EST
From: Bob Kosakowski
Subject: Oktoberfest trip and Munich Brewery Tours.

Munich brewery touring and Oktoberfest Trip

The subject of having problems getting brewery tours in Munich during
Oktoberfest was brought up by in yesterdays HBD. I've gone with a group
that has a very slight workaround to that problem. We go on yearly
Munich Brewery tours/beer haus crawl/Oktoberfest visit.
(I missed this year due to changing jobs)

The trip consists of getting to Munich the week prior to Oktoberfest and
hitting 1 or 2 prearranged brewery tours per day until Friday. On
Saturday, you either watch/follow the parade to Thereisenwies, or hang
out elsewhere to avoid the first day crowds.

The trip usually consists of from 4 to 8 brewery tours and several days
of Oktoberfest (and/or sightseeing). We get the tours because we are
there slightly ahead of the Fest.

If anyone is interested in more info on the trip let me know. We are
always looking to make the group larger since the companies that we have
worked with give bigger discounts for bigger groups. (We're trying to
get 40 people this year then we save another $100 each)

The basic info is:
10 days total, with the majority of the trip being based in Munich.
(Options for side trips to Austria and other places also available.)

Transportation from Boston - Munich. (However, since HBD is a much
larger audience, I'm sure the travel agent/organizer will have no
problem with other cities of origin.

Hotel transportation to/from Airport and Oktoberfest campgrounds.

Plenty of options for side trips, etc.

Cost: Approx. $2000 range including Air/Room/Transport all included
except lunch/dinner and of course beer. We have had a big
"feast" usually the night before departure which has in the
past been included in the price.

Dates: (To be finalized within the next two weeks) Usually starts
Mon/Tue of week before opening ceremonies and runs from 9-11 days.

USUAL DISCLAIMER:
I don't profit from this other than having a great time.
The more the merrier (and bigger discount to all).

Some of us will be getting together over the next few weeks with a
travel agent to finalize all details and book reservations.

Usually, all reservations must be made by March to assure space.

- ---
Hopefully this note doesn't conflict with HBD policy. I simply
trying to extend info possible of interest to the Brewing Community.
- ---

Bob Kosakowski
[email protected]


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 1994 10:27:22 -0500
From: [email protected]
Subject: FAQ/Archives????

I myself have received the yeast and hops FAQs by sending the
following command to :

get pub/homebrew yeast.faq (or hop.faq, etc.)

I put that one line in both the subject and message fields of my
post. That's all. I got the files in, at most, five minutes.

Wesman


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 1994 9:55:02 -0600 (CST)
From: BadAssAstronomer
Subject: shippin brew


joe said:

>A friend of mine once wanted to send his dad two bottles of particularly
>nice wine he had gotten a good deal on via his buddy the wine merchant.
>He shipped them via UPS, insured, and put down "wine" as the contents.
>They took his money, took the box, and his dad got ... a box which had
>been torn open. Empty box, no wine.

Other folks that belong to mail-order brew clubs may have
similar comments to mine, but here goes. I belong to Beer Across
America. It is shipped to me by RPS (sorry forgot the acronym
meaning). These guys know *exactly* what is in the box. When I
happen to be home to greet the delivery, he/she says "here's your
beer!"

scott

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 10:12:04 CST
From: "Bill Knecht"
Subject: Question on flavor

I recently tasted a beer by the Celis Brewery, Austin TX (pron'd
"See-liss") called Celis White. The brew was very very pale, and the name
apparently comes from an uncorrected chill haze.
My question is this: this beer has a piquant, fruity aroma, and
what seems to me a very acidic, fruity bite to it. Could anyone comment
on what this taste might be? I find it quite disturbing and unpleasant,
and would like to know what it is so that I could avoid it.
I once tasted a batch of beer that a friend had made, that had
gone bad, and this exact taste was in evidence, only stronger. He told
me that it was pyruvic acid.
Anybody got any ideas? This beer tasted so bad I couldn't finish
it. The bartender told me it always tastes that way, so it wasn't just
a fluke.
Thanks 10^6.

Bill Knecht
Computational Vision Lab
University of Minnesota

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 10:26:12
From: [email protected]
Subject: Sterilization prior to bottling


I've seen a lot lately about sterilization of bottles and kegs, but How can I
start sterilizing my bottles well in advance of bottling so I don't spend half
a day in just sterilizing?

I would like to take a small batch of bottles, sterilize them and then store
them until I am ready to bottle. Possibly starting to work on the first batch
about a week before I start to bottle.

Any suggestions welcome. This is my first batch and it looks great so far.

Gary Krone
[email protected]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 10:23:54 MST
From: "Mark B. Alston"
Subject: Rye Malt ???

I would like to brew a rye beer much like the one described in Michael
Jackson's _Beer_Companion_ however I could use some more information
on rye malts.

1) What extraction should I expect. In lieu of any other info I plan
on assuming that it will be similar to wheat malt.

2) What kind on enzymatic power does malted rye have. Does it need 6-row
to help it convert.

3) Finally, does anyone have any EBC or Lovibond values for rye malt.

Any additional info would be greatly appreciated. Certainly someone
else on the digest has tried this before, eh?

My recipie will be based on the following ratio's:
50 - 60% rye malt
25 - 30% pale malt
25 - 30% crystal malt
and enough chocolate malt to bring me to 40 EBC

I am shooting for 1.045-1.050 O.G

Any and all pointers on working with rye malt are welcome.
If their is sufficient interest I will post the results of my experience.
Perhaps after a few brews we could have a rye faq 🙂

Thanks,
Mark Alston
([email protected])

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Jan 94 14:30:00 CST
From: [email protected]
Subject: lagering


Sorry if this is a FAQ.
I have finally made another small step in the quest for the complete
brewery - a spare refrigerator - and am ready to make my first true
lager. One aspect of the lagering process that I seem to be having
trouble finding an answer on is: when should the refrigeration of the
wort commence (living in the "deep south" prevents me from just setting
this stuff on my back porch)? Do I pitch the yeast, then immediately
refrigerate or should I pitch, wait for fermentation to kick off and
then refrigerate? A post to the digest in response is fine if this is of
general interest or E-mail me directly. Thanks for the help.

john

[email protected]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 1994 9:42:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Ashley Morris <"DENALI::MORRIS"@baker.nwest.mccaw.com>
Subject: 'conditioning' lager


I recently made a 'lagered' lager, where I used Cooper's lager kit,
added Wyeast lager yeast, and let it lager outside in the cold of
Seattle for 2 months. When I finished bottling, I kept all but a
6 pack inside the apartment, and left a 6 pack outside in the cold.

Upon tasting, the 'indoor' beer was fantastic with a great head and
good head retention. The 'outdoor' beer had a feeble 'poof' when
opened, and had no head even upon agitation. Could this be the
'conditioning' that Papazian talks about? What are the reasons for
this? Finally, I assume that storing the 'indoor' beer in the cold
would not affect carbonation at this point. Am I correct?

Ashley
[email protected]



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 1994 09:47:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Mark Stewart
Subject: Grant's recipe request


Anyone out there had any luck trying to replicate the Grant's Scottish
Ale? Tried one last weekend and reaaaaallly enjoyed it! Getting ready
to make a Scotch and would reaaaaallly appreciate any/all
insight/recipes. Check the Cat's Meow and didn't reaaaaallly find
anything of interest. Please e-mail me direct (i.e., save bandwidth).

**********************************************************************
** Mark Stewart "Called my lawyer the other day and **
** Dept. of Psych. asked, 'Can I ask you a coupla questions?' **
** Univ. of Nevada He says, 'What's the second question?'" **
** mstewart@shadow -Henny Youngman **
**********************************************************************


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 12:47:32 EST
From: [email protected] (Mark Bunster)
Subject: oldenberg, breckenridge, sam's cran

* Dave asked about using an auto radiator as a chiller.

This is not who I'm responding to, but the fella who asked if one NEEDED a
chiller. One needs to quickly cool the wort to keep nasties from getting at
it during the trip from boiling to 70F, but as long as you're able to heft
the boiling pot to the bathroom, a tub of water and ice will do it fairly
quickly.


* *great microbrews* as products from Oldenberg. If that stuff
* showed up, I would have asked for a refund. Anyway, they
I rather enjoyed their Oktoberfest. I probably wouldn't had it not been sale
priced by $2 plus, but it was a nicely colored, head retaining Muenchner
Helles, I though.

Two other review notes--
Sam's Cran Lambic is quite good. The fruit taste is extremely well
blended--you know it's there, but the drying of your palate that the tart
berries provide sneaks up on you. How much did they produce?


Breckenridge seems to be a new micro (12,500 barrels a year--what's the limit
at which a place becomes a mini?) that's contract brewed in Denver, and the
IPA is ugly. Thin color, some off smell (sour, almost rancid but not in a
spoiled kind of way, if that makes sense), and strange taste. No head either,
but I seem to recall that's hard for an IPA. If it was spoiled I might feel
better, but I don't think it was--it was just not good. Any other experiences
with other styles from this brewer?



- --
Mark Bunster |Exchange conversation if you dare--
Survey Research Lab--VCU |Share an empty thought or a laugh.
Richmond, VA 23220 |
[email protected] |
(804) 367-8813/353-1731 | -edFROM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 09:40:46 -0800
From: [email protected]
Subject: yeast from trub


I will be racking a dopplebock soon into a secondary carboy. What is the best
way to save some of the dormant yeast from the trub at the bottom of the
primary fermenter? Can this be saved and cultured for future brews? This would
be a great savings. Thanks for any and all comments!

Matt Rademacher

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 1994 13:23:07 -0500
From: George
Subject: Dry hopping - How to?

Hello all,
My brewing partner and I would like to dry hopping our next batch
and we are curious as to what one does when you dry hop. In brief, we
are brewing ales at this point using mostly DME, with whole grains for
flavor, color etc. We also use a secondary fermenter.
What we were planning on doing with our next batch, was boil in the
bittering hops, boil the last 5 minutes with finishing hops and let
them steep for another 5 minutes. We would then like to use a third hop.
Now, onto my questions.
1) Are some hops better than others for dry hopping or is it a matter of tase.
When dry hopping, do you:
1) Dump loose hops in the primary and xfer them over to the secondary?
2) Dump loose hops in the secondary
3) put the hops in a mesh bag of some sort and put in the primary and seconday
4) bag 'em and put only in the secondary.

If using a mesh bag, would a nylon stocking work? Or must We use the
expensive (to us ) white mesh bag from the brew supply shop?
If I get a enough replies, I'd be happy to post a summary, if people what me to.
Thanks in advance for any input.
George.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 13:19:25 EST
From: Aaron Morris
Subject: Capital Region Microbrewers Festival


[email protected] queries about the upcoming microbrewers fesitival:

The second Annual Capital Region Microbrewers Festival is
to be held 2/18 in Saratoga Springs at the City Center from 6 to 10 PM
and 2/19 in Albany at the New Scotland Ave. Armory from 2 to 6 PM. It's
the same show at both places vendor wise, they just pack up the show
in Saratoga and move it 25 miles south to Albany. Tickets are $15 in
advance and $18 at the door if available. Be assured, there will be
NO tickets at the door. Not even if you hang out all afternoon at the
pub across the street trying to scalp one or two, not even if you are
willing to pay twice the amount or more, not even if you happen to meet
the promoter of the show and offer him your highly attractive wife in
exchange for admission, not even if you happen to know someone who works
at the place where the show is being held. Get your tickets in advance
or don't bother. I am in no way affiliated with the show and I was very
disappointed to miss it at Saratoga last year. Fortunately I was able
to get tickets to the show in Albany and can attest that it was well
worth the price. The reason for the limits is the fire marshall's
limit on the number of people allowed in the buildings. The show has
moved from the Saratoga Armory to the Saratoga City Center which can
accommodate more people. The people limit made for quite an enjoyable
event vs a madhouse and the plethora of vendors made it a beer tasters
heaven! Tickets include a souvenir beer glass to sample beer from 30
microbreweries and brewpubs from across the United States. Does it
sound like I have a promotional flyer in my lap as I type this? 😉
Also included in the price of admission are fun and educational seminars
and an opportunity to win a collection of the countries finest brews.
For information or tickets by mail contact U.S. brewing supply at 815
Madison Ave., Albany, N.Y. 12208 (518) 449-2420 Ext. 5 (again, no
affiliation). There are other contacts, but I don't care to type any
more. A great show with great selections! Seminars were very
informative - I'm still dreaming about "From Homebrewing to
Microbrewing". Which show to attend? Why bother with that decision?
Attend both!

------------------------------
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1334, 01/26/94
*************************************
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