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Delivery-Date: 17 August 1993 03:37 edt
Delivery-By: Network_Server.Daemon ([email protected]@hpfcla.fc.h)
Date: Tuesday, 17 August 1993 03:00 edt
From: homebrew-request at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM (Verify address before sending)
Subject: Homebrew Digest #1205 (August 17, 1993)
Reply-To: homebrew at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM (CHANGE THIS IF NECESSARY)
To: homebrew at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM
Errors-To: [email protected]
Precedence: bulk

HOMEBREW Digest #1205 Tue 17 August 1993


FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
(WEIX)
re:Zymurgy bashing (Jim Busch)
Blackberry Mead Responses (Andrew Cluley)
Yeast FAQ possible mix up (WEIX)
Yeast FAQ part 2 of 7 (read this after intro then continue in seq.) (WEIX)
RedHook's Malt (Domenick Venezia)
Grolsch bottles & Carbonation (Philip J Difalco)
Hard, high pH water treatment for new masher (Bill Flowers)
cleaning swinger (Mark S. Hart)
Re: double fermentation (ref. HBD #1184) (Bill Flowers)
Re: The Tumbleweed Report (Part 4) (Richard Stueven)
Blackberry Mead (pblshr)
Brew Pubs in Vancouver/Victoria (Brad Roach)
Shipping live yeast (Jim Griggers)
RE: fermenting a lager (Tom Leith MIR/ERL 362-6965)
Brewpot w/Electric Water Heater Element (Harry Covert)
Missing Head (r.wize)
Fifth annual TRUB open (MIKE LELIVELT)
Auto Reply from Watch_Mail for 13-AUG-1993 11:30 to 31-AUG-1993 08:00 (Greg Roody - MCS Prod Srvc Mgmt O/S Domain - 508-496-9314 16-Aug-1993 0545)
Homebrew Market Size Data (16-Aug-1993 0845)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 13:18:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject:

(ii) Inoculation:

a. For each jar, start by sterilizing its neck. Then sterilize ("flame") the
inculation loop. Open a slant, quench the loop in clean agar ("sizzle")
and use the loop to remove some yeast. Remove the airlock and then add the
yeast to the starter jar. Replace the airlock, and then start work on the
next jar.

(iii) Initial Buildup:

a. Place the starter jars in a location where 68F (18C can be held). Aerate
twice daily by vigorously shaking jars. 1L Erlenmeyer flasks are excellent
for this purpose because they permit vigorous swirling without getting the
wort up by the neck and opening.

b. A widely used practice is to discard any starter that is not active
within 48 hours. Certainly if some of the starters are active within this
period, then the inactive ones should be discarded. In any case, any starter
not active within 72 hours should definitely be discarded even if this means
they are all discarded.

(iv) Second Wort Charge

a. When the foam has receded prepare 250ml. of fresh sterile and
aerated wort for each starter.

b. The new wort is to be added to each starter, and this should be
done as cleanly as possible.

c. Before pouring the wort into the starters, it is very important
to swab the necks of the starter jar and the wort jar with a 200
proof alcohol solution to prevent contamination or flame them with a
lighter.

d. It is also desirable to reduce the temperature to a point closer
to the temperature that will be used in production if that is
lower than 18 C. For example, with lagers fermented at 10 C, this
is usually taken to be 14-15 C.

e. The starters should be aerated at the start and then again after
12 hours. New activity should be seen before 24 hrs. Those which
are not active within 36-48 hours should be discarded.

f. Increase the volume of wort until you have sufficient volume to pitch.

(v) Pitching the Yeast

a. At this time you should have a jar with about 500ml (a little more than 2
cups) of yeast for a 5gal ale batch. I would suggest pitching before the
krausen (foam) totally dies down so that the yeast are still in rapid growth
phase. The total volume will vary with batch size, yeast type, and your
personal experience/whim. Remember to keep yeast notes along with your beer
notes so that you can learn from experience!

b. Clean the outside of the jar with 200 proof alcohol or weak bleach and
allow to dry.

c. It is not advised that you pitch the old wort and yeast into the fermenter
because the media has been exposed to air and oxidized, etc, etc. Therefore,
pour off or siphon off the old media, leaving the yeast on the bottom of the
flask. Pour this slurry into the primary or resuspend this slurry in
sterile water and add immediately to the wort. A short exposure to water
will not harm the yeast, although they should not be exposed to it for long
periods or they will lyse.

D. Preparation of New Slants

Two steps are needed in the preparation of new slants. The first consists of
adding the proper media to test tubes or petri dishes. Once prepared the
slants will store well far a very long time when refrigerated, so many can be
prepared at one time. The second step consists of inoculating the slants with
yeast.

For the homebrewer who cannot afford several refrigerators: Please be advised
that your refrigerator is a haven for bacteria, mold, and wild yeast. Anyone
wishing to store sterile slants in their refrigerator is advised to 1. Wipe
down the slants before storage with ethanol or your favorite sanitizing
solution. 2. Seal the slants with parafilm or electrical tape. 3. Keep the
slants in a ziplock bag.4. Wipe down the bag with ethanol or your favorite
sanitizing solution before opening.

Preparation of Media:

(i) The media consists of dry malt extract and agar. As a
general rule 4 tablespoons of malt extract and 1
tablespoon of agar per cup of water will yield 16-18
slants.

(ii) Bring the water to a boil, and then stir in the malt
extract. Boil for 10 mins.

(iii) Remove from heat, and then start stirring in the agar.
This will take some effort, but this usually indicates that
a good solidification will ultimately be achieved. If your slants
"sweat" too much, increase the amount of agar you use. Although
commercial/scientific agar will vary little, I cannot answer for
"food grade" supplies.
Gelatin is easier to dissolve, but it sometimes does not
always give a proper solidification.

(iv) When the agar is dissolved, the malt/agar solution should
be added to the test tubes, filling each to approximately
a third of their volume. Add the screw cap, but do not fully
tighten.

(v) Autoclave the tubes at 15 psi for 5 mins.

(vi) Tighten the caps on the tubes, and place them at a
30 degree angle. Allow them to solidify at room temperature.
Solidification should become apparent within a few hours.
Tubes which are not solid after 24 hrs. should be discarded.

(vii) Refrigerate until needed.

Note: Petri dishes can not be autoclaved, and so alternate procedures are
needed for them. A common practice is to autoclave the malt/ agar solution in
small jars. The agar solution is then poured into the petri dishes. Let the
agar cool until the jars are hot but touchable. If the agar is too hot it
will warp the plates. Swirl it gently to mix but avoid bubbles. It is also a
good idea to leave petri dishes prepared in this way at 25-30 C for 1-2 weeks
to make sure bacteria or molds are not present. Let the poured plates dry
overnight in a clean quiet room. Wipe them down, seal them, and bag them, but
leave them at room temperature for 1 week. The bad bugs, if they are there,
will be visually apparent at the end of that period and the contaminated
plates discarded. While Petri dishes are more trouble than test tubes, they
do offer the distinct advantage of having more surface area and being easier
to store. After the trial period the dishes should be refrigerated.


Inoculation of Slants:

(i) Collection a small portion of the yeast to be added to the slants.
It goes without saying that one should strictly
follow the standard sterilization procedures of all items
used to collect this yeast.

(iii) With one hand sterilize the inculation loop (flame or alcohol
solution). With the other hand open the cap of a slant.

(iv) Dip the loop into the yeast solution, and remove a small
amount.

(v) Slowly insert the loop into the tube avoiding contact with
either the sides or neck of the tube. Streak the yeast over the
solid. Only a thin layer is wanted, and one should try to use
as much of the surface area as possible.

(vi) Slowly remove the loop avoiding contact with tube walls or
neck. Add the screw cap back on the tube and tighten.

(vii) When finished store the tubes at 25 C for one week. Visually
inspect all tubes at this time both for yeast growth, and
also for any irregularities. Discard those which are not
satisfactory.

(viii) Store the remainder at 2-8 C. After 3-4 mos. of storage,
unused tubes should either be discarded or recultured; i.e.,
propagated by the procedures in Section III.2.c and then put on
on fresh slants. The best idea is to put production yeast on
slants on a regular basis so that reculturing is not necessary.

Note: The larger surface area afforded by Petri dishes can be used to
advantage in the above procedure. In particular, it useful to
streak out yeast in parallel lines which make angles with each
other. This allows for a better examination of growth patterns.
Petri dishes should be sealed after the 1 week trial period with
electrician's tape and refrigerated.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 14:26:35 EDT
From: Jim Busch
Subject: re:Zymurgy bashing

IN the last digest:



> Elizabeth,
>
> Do you propose publishing in Zymurgy beer recipes which you have neither
> tried nor even tasted?
>
> This is not the sort of responsible journalism that would keep Zymurgy
> at the fore of the homebrewing industry.


I think this is uncalled for. Many of us will agree that the AHA has not
done a very good job of appealing to the more advanced brewers. I think
we should be welcoming the change in the AHA that is evident by the editor
of Zymurgy requesting technical info from us the HBD community. It is
quite apparent that there is some technical brewing knowledge right here
and it is a welcome change to see the powers that be asking for input
from us, even if it is on a "light beer style" question (eeechhh).

It is also naive to believe that any publication would have the time or
resources to actually taste or verify the recipes that are given by
people who are supposed to be knowledgeable in the subject matter.

Good brewing,
Jim Busch



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 11:32:54 -0700
From: [email protected] (Andrew Cluley)
Subject: Blackberry Mead Responses

Thank you for your help. I'm posting these responses so all
can enjoy. Sorry for the spacing. I guess my
initial estimate of 3-4 lbs of fruit is way too low.




Subject: RE: HBD 1203 (blackberry mead)

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 8:25:32 EDT




Hi Drew,

You are about to embark on a homebrewing experience that will leave you
forever changed. I brewed a black rasberry mead last season that was probably
the best stuff (beer or mead) that I have ever made. The recipe was patterned
after Papazians "Purple Haze Hendrix Mead" which was posted in some past
Zymurgy issue (I'm working without my references here). Pap says in comments
following this recipe that this is one of his all-time favorites and I would
have to second that opinion. This season my parents and girlfriend gladly
helped to pick about 32 lbs of fresh black rasberries at the local U-pick-um
farm with the understanding that they will all be supplied with the resulting
nectar. BTW it was an incredible year for rasberries here in Ohio. My recipe
goes something like this:

Black Rasberry Melomel

8-12 lbs of good quality honey (I like raw orange-blossom)
10-15 lbs of very ripe black rasberries (picked fresh then frozen for a
days before brewing)
2.5 tsp pectic enzyme
1.25 tsp good yeast energizer (I like the stuff that is primarily urea but
also contains a bunch of B-vitamins and various amino acids)

Optional:
1-2 oz fresh ginger (grated or finely sliced)
1 oz dried lemongrass

(the reason most of the ingredients have a range of quantities is that I
varied the recipe a bit this year)

Procedure:
- Bring 2 gal of good brewing water to a boil and add honey
- Boil honey must for 10-15 min (you can skim the scum if you want
to, but I'm not convinced it makes a difference)
- Add rasberries, ginger, and lemongrass, stir and turn off heat
- Cover and let steep (read pasteurize) 20 min
- Cool, dilute to 5 gal and add pectic enzyme and yeast nutrient
- Aereate VERY well and pitch your favorite mead yeast ->If you dont
have a favorite, I can recomend "Lalvin S. Cerevisiae (an eppernay
type) as an excellent choice.
- Wait patiently

Notes:
1. I use two stage fermentation with the racking of the mead coming when
the CO2 is down to about 1 bubble every 15-30s (usually about 1 wk.)

2. I have used the Lalvin yeast on my last six or so batches of mead and
I am very pleased with the speed with wich it starts and finishes. It
also flocculates well and besides all that it leaves a nice clean
slightly sweet finish. I have been ready to bottle after only about a
month of fermentation (counting both stages) since I started using this
yeast. BTW I think the yeast energizer is critical to this as well.

3. The above recipe is pretty general. I used essentially the same
program to make both strawberry and mullberry melomels as well this
summer.


Let me know if you have other questions.

Good Brewing,

Mark Fryling
Department of Chemistry
The Ohio State University


"Never let your sense of morality prevent you from doing what is right"
I. Asimov

>From [email protected] Fri Aug 13 09:35:52 1993

ss






Message-Id: <[email protected]>
Subject: Blackberry mead
To: [email protected]
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 09:35:10 -0700 (PDT)







Hi Drew,
Your request for a Blackberry mead recipe caught my eye in the HBD. Being
from Seattle, I know that the blackberries are ready to pick this weekend,
so if you get any recipes, could you forward them to me?

TIA,

Dave












Subject: re: Blackberry Mead

Date: 13 Aug 93 11:08:18 MDT (Fri)
From: [email protected] (Dick Dunn)


> Does anyone have a good recipe for Blackberry Mead?

Not a specific recipe, but based on the variations I've done: Use around 2
lb fruit per gallon to get a strong fruit character. Use around 2 lb honey
per gallon. (I normally use a full gallon of honey--which is a bit under
12 lb--in a 5 gallon batch.) You can use a fairly strong honey with
berries like this.

That's it--berries, honey, water, and a suitable yeast. My current
favorite yeast for melomels is "Prise de Mousse".

Crush the berries; you don't actually need to extract the juice. Use a
plastic-pail primary fermenter. Assuming you get a good fast start to
fermentation, I'd skim out all the berry-crud and rack it after about a
week. That should be enough to ferment out most of the berry sugar. If
you leave the berries in much longer, you'll get too much astringent
character.

You might consider a mixture of berries--say blackberry+raspberry. Depen-
ding on the type of blackberries and what the growing season was like,
blackberries can be rather bland. (This surprised me.)

Frozen fruit works just fine; in fact the freezing helps break up the
berries and release the juice. However, given your location and the
season, I'm guessing you have plenty of fresh fruit.
- ---
Dick Dunn [email protected] -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado USA
...Simpler is better.




























Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 08:08:05 EDT
From: [email protected] (Jim Sims)




Subject: re: blackberry mead


I'm not sure if I have a 'good' recipe or not - I think I bottled
some mead with blackberries (i know I did some with raspberries,
strawberries, and (i think cherries)). I'll check when I get home
tonite and if i've got one i'll give it a try (thanks for giving me a
great excuse to try it - been waiting for a long time)...

jim


Drew Cluley > Seattle Wa. [email protected]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 13:35:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Yeast FAQ possible mix up

Hi all.
I tried to post my yeast FAQ to the HBD today, and one of my messages was
rejected, and the bounced back message was all garbled! I apologize in
advance if any of the other submissions of mine are messed-up or out of
sequence. Rather than try again today and drown the net with garbage, I
will wait until tomorrow and see what came through.
Sorry!
(Well, I am!)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 13:52:29 -0500 (CDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Yeast FAQ part 2 of 7 (read this after intro then continue in seq.)

SECTION I: Yeast Characteristics

Yeast are unicellular fungi. All brewing yeast belong to the genus
Saccharomyces. Ale yeast are S. cerevisiae, and lager yeast are S. uvarum
(formerly carlsbergerensis). Weizen yeasts are usually 50/50 mixtures of
cerevesiae and "delbrueckii" (delbrueckii may or may not be an accepted
toxonomic class, however its use as a label appears widespread, and it is
used herein for simplicity). You may ask,"If all these yeast are the same
species, why all the fuss?" The fuss has to do with strain variation. Just
as all dogs are the same species, yet no one will ever mistake a basset
hound for a doberman (at least not twice :-). Using different strains can add
fun and spice to brewing, especially if you have an idea of the differences.
I originally put together this guide to catalogue the different affects of
different strains. This information is in Section II.

Some yeast strains are more active and vigorous than others. Lager strains
in particular do not show as much activity on the surface as many of the
ale strains. Most packages provide an adequate quantity of yeast to complete
fermentation with varying amounts of lag time depending on strain, freshness,
handling, and temperature. If you find it too slow, make a starter as
recommended on the package or as listed in Section III. In any event, a
closed fermenter with an airlock is recommended.

Temperature

The slow onset of visible signs of fermentation can be improved by starting
fermentation at 75 deg. F (24 deg. C) until activity is evident, then
moving to your desired fermentation temperature. A few degrees does make
a significant difference without adversely affecting flavor.

The normal temperatures for ale yeast range from 60-75 deg. F (16-24 deg. C)
A few strains ferment well down to 55 deg. F (13 deg. C). 68 deg. F (20
deg. C) is a good average. Lager strains normally ferment from 32-75 deg.
F (0-24 deg. C). 50-55 deg. F (10-12 deg. C) is customary for primary
fermentation. A slow steady reduction to the desired temperature for
secondary fermentation typically works well.

The fermentation rate is directly related to temperature. The lower the
temperature, the slower fermentation commences. Fluctuations in tempera-
ture such as cooling and warming from night to day can adversely affect
yeast performance.

Attenuation

Attenuation refers to the percentage of sugar converted to alcohol. Apparent
attenuation of yeast normally ranges from 67-77%. The attenuation
is determined by the composition of the wort or juice and the yeast strain
used. Each yeast strain ferments different sugars to varying degrees,
resulting in higher or lower final gravities. This will affect the resid-
ual sweetness and body.

Really, it's slightly more complex than that (isn't everything ?-).There's
"apparent attenuation" and "real attenuation". The difference comes about
because alcohol has a specific gravity less than 1 (about .8). Real
attenuation is the percent of sugars converted to alcohol. So, if you had a
10% (by weight) sugar solution (about 1.040), and got 100% real attenuation,
the resulting specific gravity would be about 0.991 (corresponding to about
5% alcohol by weight). The apparent attenuation of this brew would be 122%!
George Fix published a set of equations relating apparent and real
attenuation and alcohol content last year. To wit:
A = alcohol content of finished beer in % by wt.
RE = real extract of finished beer in deg. Plato
Since A and RE are generally not known to us, additional approximations are
needed. The following are due to Balling, and have proven to be reasonable.
Let OE and be defined as follows:
OE = original extract (measured deg. Plato of wort)
AE = apparent extract (measured deg. Plato of finished beer).
Then,
RE = 0.1808*OE + 0.8192*AE, and
A = (OE-RE)/(2.0665-.010665*OE).

The "tricky part" here is the expression of the sugar content in degrees
Plato. This is a fancy term for % sugar by weight, and corresponds *roughly*
to "degrees gravity" divided by 4. That is, a 1.040 wort has an extract of
10 degrees Plato. He goes on to calculate an example: To take a specific
case, first note that from Plato tables an OG of 1.045 is equivalent to OE =
11.25 deg. Plato, while a FG of 1.010 is equivalent to AE = 2.5 deg. Plato.
Therefore, RE =0.1808*11.25 + 0.8192*2.5 = 4.08 deg. Plato, and A = (11.25 -
4.08)/(2.0665 - .010665*11.25) = 3.68 % wt. The apparent attenuation is 75%
(from 1.040 to 1.010), the real attenuation is (11.25 - 4.08)/11.25 = 64%.
N.B. Most attenuation figures are given in terms of *apparent* attenuation.
(Thanks to Chris Pencis quoting Stuart Thomas quoting George Fix).

Flocculation

Flocculation refers to the tendency of yeast to clump together and settle
out of suspension. The degree and type of flocculation varies for different
yeast. Some strains clump into very large flocculate. Some flocculate very
little giving a more granular consistency. Most yeast strains clump and
flocculate to a moderate degree.

pH Ranges

Typical pH range for yeast fermentations begins at about 5.1 and optimally
4.8. During the course of fermentation the pH reduces to typically 3.9-
4.1 and as low as 3.1 in some wines.

Alcohol Tolerances

The alcohol tolerance for most brewing yeast is as least to 8%. Barley
wines to 12% can be produced by most ale strains. Pitching rates need to
be increased proportionally to higher gravities. Alternately, Champagne
and Wine yeast can be used for high gravities sometimes reaching alcohols
to 18%.

Smells and Tastes

Although the principle tastes present in a beer are the result of the malts
and hops used, the strain of yeast used can also add important flavors, good
and/or bad. Yeast that add little in the way of extra flavors are usually
described as having a "clean" taste. These yeast are especially useful for
beginners because they permit experimentation with different ingredients
without worrying about yeast influence. Yeast produce three main classes of
metabolic by-products that affect beer taste: phenols, esters, and diacetyl.
Phenols can give a "spicy" or "clove-like" taste. Esters can lend a "fruity"
taste to beer. Diacetyls can give beer a "butterscotch" or sometimes a
"woody" taste. The desirability of any one of these components depends
largely on the style of beer being brewed. In addition, there are certain
by-products in these families that are more noxious than the others. A lot
depends on the individual palette and the effect youUre aiming for.
A final note: some yeast, especially lager yeast during lagering, can produce
a "rotten egg" smell. This is the result of hydrogen sulfite production.
Although the scent of this bubbling out of the air-lock is enough to make the
strongest homebrewmeister blanch, fear not! The good news is that this will
usually pass, leaving the beer unaffected. Relax, etc.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 11:56:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Domenick Venezia
Subject: RedHook's Malt

I wrote in #1202:

> I called the Redhook Brewery and spoke to Thomas Price, a very nice and
> helpfull guy. Sorry, Al, but there is no wheat malt in their Summer
> Rye. Here's the scoop:
>
> 10% flaked organic rye
> 5% Munich
> 85% 2-row barley (probably Briess)
^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^
Jeff Frane wrote in #1203

> Given that the Red Hook Brewery is within 175 miles of Great Western's
> Vancouver, WA plant (and in the same state), this seems bizarre if not
> completely unlikely. As far as I've been able to determine over the
> years, virtually every west coast brewery gets their base malt fm GW.
> Even if the quality of their malt wasn't the question, surely shipping
> rates would be.

My original guess that their 2-row was Briess was based on the stacks of
Briess Malt sacks glimpsed through the brewery's window. A phone call
to Thomas Price clarified the matter. Redhook gets their wheat malt
from Briess and as Jeff correctly surmissed they get virtually everything
else from Great Western.

Yikes! This is a TOUGH room.

Domenick Venezia





------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 15:09:13 -0400
From: Philip J Difalco
Subject: Grolsch bottles & Carbonation


I also use Grolsch bottles (using usual anal sanitation precautions),
and have had no problems with any of my batches.

However, concerning carbonation, I did notice that the few beers that
I put into the fridge, for a little over a weeks time, experienced less
carbonation than the ones I stored in my basement.
The gaskets are relatively new (as the bottles are not even 5 months old).

I was thing that the colder fridge temperatures may have caused the
gaskets to contract enough to make an imperfect seal letting gas escape
from the beer (to outside the bottle), thusly reducing the beer's
carbonation (factor).
- ---
email: [email protected] (NeXT Mail Okay)
Philip DiFalco, Senior SomethingOrOther, Advanced Technology
FannieMae, 3900 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington, DC 22016 (202)752-2812

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 15:44:00 -0400
From: Bill Flowers
Subject: Hard, high pH water treatment for new masher

I've started mashing and I think I might have a problem: my water supply
has a high pH (8.0-8.2) and is quite hard (250 ppm). Its perfect for the
fish I keep (rift valley cichlids), but I'm not sure what to do with it for
brewing. Before I started mashing I never concerned myself with it, but
now I'm mashing and wanting to make pale ales and pilsners instead of
stouts and Munich dunkels, so it is now a concern. I've got a call into
the lab to get the water analysis details, but I won't have them until
Monday.

I've also got access to lower pH, softer (but still not soft) water here at
the office. I'll get the details of it on Monday too.

I've read Miller on water treatment, and it just left me more confused than
ever. Why can't he just say: "Do this if you have this water, do that if
you have some other water"?

What I want is a recipe or flow chart (or hand holding) on what to do with
my mash and sparge water. Can anyone help me? Or at least put Miller's
explanation in terms I might understand.
- ---
W.A. (Bill) Flowers email: [email protected]
QNX Software Systems, Ltd. QUICS: bill (613) 591-0934 (data)
(613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews
(613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 15:31:39 CDT
From: Mark S. Hart
Subject: cleaning swinger
Full-Name: Mark S. Hart

Just a data point.

I have always used the brown and green swing top/Grolsch bottles. Being
a procrastinating lazy sort here's the easiest way I've found to clean
them with out a single mishap to date.

Rinse the bottles after emptying
and stick em in the dish washer with the dinner stuff. Save these bottles
(usually only 5 or 6) until you have enough to bottle the next batch.
When your ready to bottle the next batch wash all the bottles again and toss
1 or 2 ounces of bleach into the washer. The washer will recycle the bleach
water solution a few times before beginning the rinse cylcle.
Bottle when washer stops and every thing is dry.
I usually don't use any soap on the second washing. Scoff
all you want but I've done my last 7 or 8 batches this way with no worries
or infections. Initially I was concerned about the bleach deteriorating
my washers seals so I now dilute the 1 or 2 ounces of bleach in a gallon of
water and dump the whole mess in the washer. So far everything is O'tay.
I also have noted that the green bottles are superior
in quality to the brown.

See Ya, M. S. Hart


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 16:54:53 -0400
From: Bill Flowers
Subject: Re: double fermentation (ref. HBD #1184)

My apologies for the long delay in responding. Its amazing how
far backlogged I can get in reading HBD when I go away for
vacation.

Anyway, in HBD #1184, [email protected] wrote:

> Third: Has anyone on the digest tried to use a double fermentation on beer?
> I heard about the process, and was thinking of trying it, but I decided to
> consult higher authorities first. For those un-familar to the process, you
> pitch a yeast with a low alcohol tolerance (ale and lager yeasts) into your
> primary, then wait until the fermentation slows due to alcohol abundence,
> transfer into a secondary, and pitch a second yeast in that has a higher
> tolerance (such as a wine or champagne yeast). What effects would this have?
> Is it at all desirable? Has anyone done this? Is there any literature on
> this topic (I can't find the source that gave me the idea for this)? Have I
> finally gone off the perverbial 'deep end'?

Nope, you've not gone off the deep end. I've used this technique (based on
2nd hand information which was supposed to have come from the now retired,
former senior biochemist for John Courage) on my Barley Wine, and it tastes
fantastic! Before pitching the ale yeast, I put 1L of wort in a sanitized
mason jar into the fridge. About 3 days into the primary fermetation, I
removed the wort from the fridge in the morning to warm up. That evening I
mixed it with 1L of boiled and cooled water (to get the gravity down to
something more reasonable for a "starter") and pitched some champagne
yeast. When that was well started I added it to the fermenting barley
wine.

For a beer like this where you want to get the typical ale flavor (esthers)
as well as the higher alcohol content, I highly recommend the technique.
- ---
W.A. (Bill) Flowers email: [email protected]
QNX Software Systems, Ltd. QUICS: bill (613) 591-0934 (data)
(613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews
(613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 15:09:34 -0700
From: Richard Stueven
Subject: Re: The Tumbleweed Report (Part 4)

Kinney laments:

The decision to brew with extracts still bothers me. I could
see myself making excuses (like I'm doing now) to my brewing
buddies and my newly acquired peers in the commercial brewing
world. But this was no time to be dogmatic. Instead we had to
be realistic about the physical brewing environment and the
market we were trying to crack.

Sounds like you've slammed face-first into the Difference Between A
Hobby And A Business.

Good luck, Kinney!

have fun
gak

Richard Stueven, Castro Valley CA
gak & gerry's garage, brewery and hockey haven

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 18:53:51 EDT
From: [email protected]
Subject: Blackberry Mead

If anyone sent Drew Cluley the recipe for Blackberry Mead, I'd appreciate
getting a copy.

[email protected] (Tom Finan)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 16:58:53 PDT
From: [email protected] (Brad Roach)
Subject: Brew Pubs in Vancouver/Victoria


I am vactioning in Vancouver and Victoria during September. If anyone knows
of some good brew pubs or beer bars worth checking out, please pass along the
information.

Thanks,
__
/_/ /
/ \ /_ __ __/
/___/_/ (_(_<_(_/

Brad Roach / QLogic / Costa Mesa, Calif
[email protected]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 22:40:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Griggers
Subject: Shipping live yeast


I bought a "Yeast Culture Kit" from _*deleted*_ when I was at
the AHA Conference in Portland. I had been thinking of buying one for
some time, and their "special show price" of $29.90 seemed great.

"Save $10 since the regular price is $34.95 and you save the $5 shipping."

I was told the slants would be inoculated on Monday after they got back
to California. They would check for viability, and send them out by UPS.
(Conference was July 27 - July 29)

I called _*deleted*_ Thursday, August 12 to check on the yeast. I
was told it was shipped out Monday, August 9, by surface, which I assumed
was by UPS.

The yeast arrived Friday in a plain manila envelope in the US Mail. My mail
box is a standard flat-black metal rural box that spends 75% of its time in
direct sunlight. Today is fairly cool (90F) and mostly cloudy. The temperature
inside the box was around 105F. I guess I am lucky in that: 1) I was
home, 2) I checked the mail early, and 3) today has mostly overcast skies.

To quote their catalog: "IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to the delicate nature of live
yeast and the temperature extremes in many parts of our country, we STRONGLY
recommend 2nd Day Air delivery of your yeast culturing kits. (2nd-Day Air
delivery is the only way we can guarantee your live yeast cultures to be
viable upon reciept)." They charge $6.00 for this BTW.

I was disappointed. I know they saved money shipping it by US Mail ($0.52
stamp), but why put the "IMPORTANT NOTE" in their catalog if it does not
matter? I know the owner will make good on the yeast if it turns out to
be fried, but that is not the point. I had delayed brewing because I didn't
have any more yeast and I wasn't going to get more Wyeast since I had this
yeast on order. (I drive 80 miles, each way, to Charlotte, NC to buy yeast,
so I usually stockpile.) If the yeast turns out bad, then it would be
another two weeks before I could expect a replacement.

I guess I am asking the yeast experts out there what they think about the
above conditions in the handling of yeast. What is affected by high
temperatures of yeast on a slant, other than possibly lower viability?
Can elevated storage temperature cause undesired fermentation characteristics?

I am NOT knocking the shop owner or _*deleted*_, but I am questioning their
choice of shipping. I have heard nothing but praise about their operation.
The kit I bought is supposed to be the best on the market. The yeast I
received may be in perfect condition. I am simply asking for information
regarding yeast handling, since I am certainly not an expert on this subject.
Thanks.

-Jim Griggers [email protected]
West Columbia, South Carolina

PS. Since I have not tested or used the yeast in question, I feel that it
would be unfair to name the shop.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 08:17:44 -0500
From: [email protected] (Tom Leith MIR/ERL 362-6965)
Subject: RE: fermenting a lager


Patrick asks in HBD 1203 about *fermenting* a lager by placing the carboy in a
referigerator without using an AirStat(tm) or other thermostat. His concern
was temperature fluctuations.

The problem isn't so much with temperature fluctuations as with the mean
temperature, Patrick. To ferment, you're looking for temperatures in the
45 - 55 F range. This is too warm for most regerigerators. They're expecting
to keep things in the 32 - 40F range. Note that this is ideal for lagering,
but not for the fermentation. In fact, I have an AirStat(tm) and the main
problem I have with it is that it only goes down to 40F. Why? Well, who sets
their air conditioner below 40 degrees? So, I use the AirStat(tm) to control
in the fermentation and serving range, and just use the built-in regerigerator
thermostat when lagering. There's a guy in our local brew club who uses a
thermostat he got from Granger -- it controls over the whole range we want,
and costs about the same as the AirStat(tm). You don't get the fancy LCD
display though. If you have a Granger catalog, you might check it out.

Hope this helps...

t
=============================================================================
Tom Leith InterNet: [email protected]
4434 Dewey Ave. CompuServe: 70441,3536
St. Louis, Missouri 63116
"Tho' I could not caution all
314/362-6965 - Office I still might warn a few:
314/362-6971 - Office Fax Don't lend your hand
314/481-2512 - Home + Infernal Machine to raise no flag
atop no Ship of Fools"
=============================================================================




------------------------------

Date: 14 Aug 93 18:41:56 EDT
From: Harry Covert <[email protected]>
Subject: Brewpot w/Electric Water Heater Element

I am about to make a brewpot from a 15.5 gallon SS keg. Since I want to
brew indoors I would like to heat the pot with an electric water heater
element. Has anyone else done this, and if so, how did you do it?
Thanks.




------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 93 23:36:00 BST
From: [email protected]
Subject: Missing Head

I have made some decent all grain beer lately but have noticed a significant
difference in the way they hold a head. I have been very careful to pour
the beers in the same type cleansed glassware so the only variable I can
turn to is the grains. What makes this unique I believe is that the beers
which do not hold a head are Wheat beers. My pale ales keep a head for a
good 5 minutes while my wheat beers lose their head within 2 minutes. Two
comparable grain brews were;
Wheat Pale
Brit Pale 0 8lbs
Klages 6lbs 1lb
Wheat 3.5lbs .5lb
Crystal .5lb .5lb

Is there something I don't understand here? I always thought wheat beers
would have longer lasting heads and that is why you add a little wheat to
most recipes.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1993 22:07:53 -0500 (EST)
From: MIKE LELIVELT
Subject: Fifth annual TRUB open

A brief announcement for an upcoming competition.

The TRiangle's Unabashed homeBrewers (TRUB) will host its fifth annual TRUB
open on 10/16 of this year in Durham, NC. All catagories except Sake will be
judged. If you are interested in obtaining an entry form or in judging for the
competition, send me an e mail message at "[email protected]". In the
past we have received more than 75 entries thus judges have received a full
experience point. Accommodations (read fellow member's sofas) will gladly be
made available to travelling judges who request them. Prizes in the form of
ribbons and a trophy and a case of Sam Adams whatever for best of show will be
awarded. MIKE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 93 05:45:39 EDT
From: Greg Roody - MCS Prod Srvc Mgmt O/S Domain - 508-496-9314 16-Aug-1993 0545
Subject: Auto Reply from Watch_Mail for 13-AUG-1993 11:30 to 31-AUG-1993 08:00

I will be out of the office on Vacation from Friday 13 August (afternoon only)
until Monday 30 August.

I will be back in the office on Tuesday, August 31st.

I cannot check my voice mail (at DTN 276-9314 (508-496-9314)) while I'm
away, so:

-- If this is a non-critical & non time dependent matter, please
leave a message and I will deal with things when I return.

-- If you don't wish to wait, you can try contacting my partners in
NT, Annemarie Davies at 276-8250 or Ed Mchugh at 276-9149, or my
manager Susan Dugdale at 264-3699.


/greg ()

=-=-=-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-=-
* Note this will be the only "Automatic" message you will receive until *
* I return. Of course, if you are on a cluster, this is the only message *
* that this "node::user" will receive; using a different node::user will *
* fool this silly little .com routine and you will get another copy of *
* this message. *
=-=-=-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-=-

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Aug 93 05:51:57 PDT
From: 16-Aug-1993 0845
Subject: Homebrew Market Size Data

I have an idea for a product that might be of interest to homebrewers.
While I'm working on a prototype I'm also searching for sources of
informationon the homebrewer marketplace. Data on U.S., Canada, and
Europe is of interest. I'm interested in estimates of the number of
homebrewers, the dollar value of the market, and detail on how the dollars
are spent (supplies,equipment,etc.)
If anyone knows a source or has this sort of information I would love to hear
from you via E-mail.
regards,
Bruce

------------------------------


End of HOMEBREW Digest #1205, 08/17/93
*************************************
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  3 Responses to “Category : Various Text files
Archive   : HBD120X.ZIP
Filename : HBD1205

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